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  • Cited by 2
  • Cited by
    This article has been cited by the following publications. This list is generated based on data provided by CrossRef.

    Zhang, Yang and Long, Mei 2015. The role ofYum Cha(Cantonese morning tea) in the integration process among interprovincial migration in China. Leisure Studies, Vol. 34, Issue. 1, p. 59.

    Klein, J.A. 2009. Meals in Science and Practice.

  • Bulletin of the School of Oriental and African Studies, Volume 70, Issue 3
  • October 2007, pp. 511-537

Redefining Cantonese cuisine in post-Mao Guangzhou1

  • Jakob A. Klein (a1)
  • DOI:
  • Published online: 05 October 2007

To what extent do regional cuisines provide a set of principles through which “outside” flavours, foodstuffs and techniques may be safely incorporated? This question is explored through an ethnographic account of Cantonese cuisine in Guangzhou (Canton) at the turn of the twenty-first century. I focus on a historic restaurant in the city, where managers and cooks sought to innovate with the help of “outside” tastes, but without the restaurant losing its status as a “traditional” establishment. I argue that the incorporation of “outside” flavours onto local menus was not done on the basis of culinary principles alone, but that considerations of social hierarchy and cultural identity were equally important factors. Indeed, many of the dishes and techniques introduced contradicted the alleged principles of Cantonese cuisine. Such contradictions were downplayed, however, through essentialized representations of Cantonese cuisine and its relationship to specific localities.

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Bulletin of the School of Oriental and African Studies
  • ISSN: 0041-977X
  • EISSN: 1474-0699
  • URL: /core/journals/bulletin-of-the-school-of-oriental-and-african-studies
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