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Long waves on a beach

  • D. H. Peregrine (a1)


Equations of motion are derived for long waves in water of varying depth. The equations are for small amplitude waves, but do include non-linear terms. They correspond to the Boussinesq equations for water of constant depth. Solutions have been calculated numerically for a solitary wave on a beach of uniform slope. These solutions include a reflected wave, which is also derived analytically by using the linearized long-wave equations.



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