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  • Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Volume 585
  • August 2007, pp. 93-115

Wave breaking onset and strength for two-dimensional deep-water wave groups

  • MICHAEL L. BANNER (a1) and WILLIAM L. PEIRSON (a2)
  • DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/S0022112007006568
  • Published online: 25 August 2007
Abstract

The numerical study of J. Song & M. L. Banner (J. Phys. Oceanogr. vol. 32, 2002, p. 254) proposed a generic threshold parameter for predicting the onset of breaking within two-dimensional groups of deep-water gravity waves. Their parameter provides a non-dimensional measure of the wave energy convergence rate and geometrical steepening at the maximum of an evolving nonlinear wave group. They also suggested that this parameter might control the strength of breaking events. The present paper presents the results of a detailed laboratory observational study aimed at validating their proposals.

For the breaking onset phase of this study, wave potential energy was measured at successive local envelope maxima of nonlinear deep-water wave groups propagating along a laboratory wave tank. These local maxima correspond alternately to wave group geometries with the group maximum occurring at an extreme carrier wave crest elevation, followed by an extreme carrier wave trough depression. As the nonlinearity increases, these crest and trough maxima can have markedly different local energy densities owing to the strong crest–trough asymmetry. The local total energy density was reconstituted from the potential energy measurements, and made dimensionless using the square of the local (carrier wave) wavenumber. A mean non-dimensional growth rate reflecting the rate of focusing of wave energy at the envelope maximum was obtained by smoothing the local fluctuations.

For the cases of idealized nonlinear wave groups investigated, the observations confirmed the evolutionary trends of the modelling results of Song & Banner (2002) with regard to predicting breaking onset. The measurements confirmed the proposed common breaking threshold growth rate of 0.0014±0.0001, as well as the predicted key evolution times: the time taken to reach the energy maximum for recurrence cases; and the time to reach the breaking threshold and then breaking onset, for breaking cases.

After the initiation and subsequent cessation of breaking, the measured wave packet mean energy losses and loss rates associated with breaking produced an unexpected finding: the post-breaking mean wave energy did not decrease to the mean energy level corresponding to maximum recurrence, but remained significantly higher. Therefore, pre-breaking absolute wave energy or mean steepness do not appear to be the most fundamental determinants of post-breaking wave packet energy density.

However, the dependence of the fractional breaking energy loss of wave packets on the parametric growth rate just before breaking onset proposed by Song & Banner (2002) was found to provide a plausible collapse to our laboratory data sets, within the experimental uncertainties. Further, when the results for the energy loss rate per unit width of breaking front were expressed in terms of a breaker strength parameter b multiplying the fifth power of the wave speed, it is found that b was also strongly correlated with the parametric growth rate just before breaking. Measured values of b obtained in this investigation ranged systematically from 8 × 10−5 to 1.2 × 10−3. These are comparable with open ocean estimates reported in recent field studies.

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Journal of Fluid Mechanics
  • ISSN: 0022-1120
  • EISSN: 1469-7645
  • URL: /core/journals/journal-of-fluid-mechanics
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