Tracking the wines of the Judgment of Paris over time: The case of Stag ’ s Leap Wine Cellars ’ Cabernet Sauvignon

The outcome of the famous 1976 Judgment of Paris, a blind wine tasting of ten wines by nine French judges, brought American wines to the forefront of the wine business. A Californian wine, the 1973 Stag ’ s Leap Wine Cellars S.L.V. Cabernet Sauvignon, was declared the winner, surpassing four highly prized French wines (Château Mouton-Rothschild 1970, Château Montrose 1970, Château Haut-Brion 1970, and Château Léoville Las Cases 1971). We collect ratings from experts for (almost) all vintages of the same ten wines over the years 1968 – 2021 and find that the Stag ’ s Leap Cabernet Sauvignon is far from being first. We conclude that either the 1973 vintage was overrated by the experts who tasted it in 1976, or 1973 was merely an outlier in this winery.


I. Introduction
On May 24, 1976, Steven Spurrier, a British wine merchant, and his colleague Patricia Gallagher of the Académie du Vin, organized a blind tasting of ten red wines in Paris. 1 They gathered nine French judges, 2 who were acknowledged experts, to taste the ten wines: four Bordeaux and six Californian Cabernet Sauvignons.
Wines were graded on a scale between 0 and 20, and the grades were simply added to compute the final ranking. Table 1 reports the data. As can be seen, the winner was the 1973 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars S.L.V. Cabernet Sauvignon (Stag's Leap Cabernet Sauvignon in what follows), a Californian wine from Napa Valley, while celebrated Bordeaux-Château Mouton-Rothschild, 1970, Château Haut-Brion, 1970, Château Montrose, 1970, and Château Léoville Las Cases, 1971.
It is often said that the Judgment of Paris gave worldwide visibility to American wines. George Taber, a journalist working for Time magazine, published a book on the event (Taber, 2005). In a segment for National Public Radio News he is quoted saying that the Judgment of Paris "turned out to be the most important event, because it broke the myth that only in France could you make great wine. It opened the door for this phenomenon today of the globalization of wine." Maria Godoy (2016), the senior science and health editor and correspondent for National Public Radio News in charge of that segment, punned that this was "the blind taste test that decanted the wine world." The outcome of the Paris tasting was, nevertheless, controversial. Ashenfelter and Quandt (1999) stated that tasters should have ranked the wines instead of rating them, to guarantee that each judge had the same influence on the outcome. This slightly changed the rankings, but Stag's Leap Cabernet Sauvignon remained first. Hulkower (2009) noted that Château Haut-Brion would have been first if the votes had been aggregated via the so-called Borda rule. 3 Ginsburgh and Zang (2012) and Gergaud, Ginsburgh, and Moreno-Ternero (2021) studied other voting protocols, which also changed the outcomes of the Judgment.
In this short paper, we follow another path and check whether the number one position of Stag's Leap Cabernet Sauvignon (as well as the position of the other nine wines) has remained stable over time. As we shall see, we find that Stag's Leap Cabernet Sauvignon is far from being first in most subsequent years. This may be due to one of the two following possibilities: (a) judges overrated the wine in 1976; or (b) Stag's Leap Cabernet Sauvignon was an outlier in 1973.

A. Analysis
To track the quality assessments of these ten wines over time, we collected the ratings of experts (such as Wine Spectator, Wine Enthusiast, Wine Advocate, Revue du Vin de France, Jancis Robinson, James Suckling, and others) between 1968 and 2021. 4 Table 2a shows how many wines and their ratings could be retrieved between 1968 and 2021. Table 2b shows the frequencies of available ratings for the ten wines. In 19 cases (years), it was possible to collect the ratings of all ten wines; in 14 cases, this was possible for nine wines, etc. As will be seen, we also need the average rating 3 Hulkower (2009) also noted that if the rates of the two non-official judges (Spurrier and Gallagher) had also been considered, Stag's Leap would remain first with the Borda rule. F i n a l r a n k 1 2 4 3 5 6 9 8 7 1 0 Notes: Each column gathers the ratings from the nine official (French) judges, and the two non-official judges for the ten red wines. The last rows provide the aggregate ratings and the corresponding ranking that resulted from them when taking all 11 judges or only the 9 official ( of wines produced in the five regions in which the ten wines are grown: California, Pauillac, Pessac-Léognan, Saint-Estèphe, and Saint-Julien. 5 Table 3 provides some analytics for the ten wines. Column (4) shows the number of times each of them was observed (or rated); Column (5) contains the number of  Notes: Table 2a shows how many wines and their ratings could be retrieved between 1968 and 2021 from Wine Searcher.

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Vintage scores can be found on https://www.wine-searcher.com/vintage-chart/all/fine-wines/4671/ north-coast for all six Californian wines. For Château Haut-Brion, check https://www.wine-searcher. com/vintage-chart/all/fine-wines/7-bordeaux; the three other French wines can be found on https://www. wine-searcher.com/vintage-chart/all/fine-wines/901-medoc. times the rating of each individual wine was higher than the rating of the wine's region (again, California, Pauillac, Pessac-Léognan, Saint-Estèphe, and Saint-Julien). As can be seen, Stag's Leap Cabernet Sauvignon did better than the average rate of all Californian wines only once in the 27 years for which there was information, while, as shown in Column (6), Château Mouton-Rothschild, Château Haut-Brion, Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon, and Château Léoville Las Cases did better than the average rate of the region more than half the time. The Californian wine Heitz Wine Cellars Martha's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is close with 49 percent. The fact that Stag's Leap Cabernet Sauvignon has moved below their peers might not be a sign of deteriorating wines but may also reflect that Napa, as a new wine region, has seen a surge of outstanding wineries. Table 4 displays the results of two regressions. We restrict the sample size to vintages after 1976 (the year of the Judgment) and before 2017 to ensure that each rating is based on a reasonable set of expert ratings. 6 One regression is based on 359 observations for which the score of the wine and the average score of the region are available. The other one is based on 190 observations that are complete (ten wines times 19 years). The reference category is Stag's Leap Cabernet Sauvignon. The two regressions can be written as: where R ijt is the rating of wine i in region j and year t, wine i is a dummy equal to 1 for this wine and 0 otherwise, x jt is the average wine score in region j and year t, which is assumed to account for weather (and other) conditions in region j and year t; α i , β, and γ are parameters. Estimates α i account for the differences between x jt and R ijt . They can be interpreted as being the number of points that deviates from the regional vintage rating of the region. Château-Mouton-Rothschild, for example, has 3.986 Notes: Table 2b shows the frequencies of available ratings. In 19 cases (years), it was possible to get ratings for all 10 wines; in 14 cases, this was only possible for 9 wines, etc.

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The results are similar if one uses all the observations. Results are available from the authors upon request. points more than the average rating of the whole Pauillac region. Note also that in both cases (359 or 190 data points), the rankings are identical.
The  Notes: The first three columns list the 1976 Paris rankings (1), names (2), and regions (3) of each wine. Column (4) the number of times each of them was observed in our data; Column (5) lists the number of times the rating of each individual wine was higher than the rating of the wine's region. Column (6) lists the corresponding ratios from the entries in Column (5) and Column (4).  Notes: Robust standard errors in parentheses; *** p < 0.01, ** p < 0.05, * p < 0.01. The first three columns list the 1976 Paris rankings (1), names (2), and regions (3) of each wine. The next two columns list the coefficients, and the corresponding rank, for the regression based on 359 observations for which the rating of the wine and the average rating of the region are available. The last two columns list the coefficients, and the corresponding rank, for the regression based on the 190 observations that are complete (from the 19 years in which the 10 wines were rated).

Sauvignon and Heitz Wine Cellars Martha's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. We stress that our results, based on a large set of data and ratings, are arguably more solid than those from the (one-shot) Judgment of Paris in the year 1976. This leads us to conclude that either the 1973 Stag's Leap Cabernet Sauvignon was overrated by the experts who tasted it in 1976, or that the 1973 vintage was an outlier in this winery.
Note that (a) if judge Christian Vannequé had given 15 instead of 16.5 points to Stag's Leap Cabernet Sauvignon in the Paris tasting, its average rating (when considering the 9 French judges only) would have dropped to the average rating that Château Mouton-Rothschild obtained; and (b) in our world, there are as many first prizes as there are competitions, but the success that winners enjoy is often shortlasting. This is so for books, movies, or musical contests. See, among others, English (2005) and Ginsburgh (2003).
However, Stag's Leap Cabernet Sauvignon is "still going strong." In 2022, a 1973 bottle was sold for $12,300, the highest price for the vintage, and three times the previous largest price (La Gazette Drouot, 2022).