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Clays in Cosmetics and Personal-Care Products

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  01 January 2024

César Viseras ,
Rita Sánchez-Espejo ,
Rosanna Palumbo ,
Ninfa Liccardi ,
Fátima García-Villén ,
Ana Borrego-Sánchez ,
Marina Massaro ,
Serena Riela  and
Alberto López-Galindo
César Viseras*
Affiliation:
Department of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Technology, School of Pharmacy, University of Granada, Campus of Cartuja, 18071 s/n, Granada, Spain Andalusian Institute of Earth Sciences, CSIC-University of Granada, Avenida de Las Palmeras 4, 18100, Armilla, Granada, Spain
Rita Sánchez-Espejo
Affiliation:
Department of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Technology, School of Pharmacy, University of Granada, Campus of Cartuja, 18071 s/n, Granada, Spain
Rosanna Palumbo
Affiliation:
Department of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Technology, School of Pharmacy, University of Granada, Campus of Cartuja, 18071 s/n, Granada, Spain
Ninfa Liccardi
Affiliation:
Department of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Technology, School of Pharmacy, University of Granada, Campus of Cartuja, 18071 s/n, Granada, Spain
Fátima García-Villén
Affiliation:
Department of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Technology, School of Pharmacy, University of Granada, Campus of Cartuja, 18071 s/n, Granada, Spain
Ana Borrego-Sánchez
Affiliation:
Department of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Technology, School of Pharmacy, University of Granada, Campus of Cartuja, 18071 s/n, Granada, Spain
Marina Massaro
Affiliation:
Dipartimento di Scienze e Tecnologie Biologiche, Chimiche e Farmaceutiche (STEBICEF), University of Palermo, Viale delle Scienze, Ed. 17, 90128 Palermo, Italy
Serena Riela
Affiliation:
Dipartimento di Scienze e Tecnologie Biologiche, Chimiche e Farmaceutiche (STEBICEF), University of Palermo, Viale delle Scienze, Ed. 17, 90128 Palermo, Italy
Alberto López-Galindo
Affiliation:
Andalusian Institute of Earth Sciences, CSIC-University of Granada, Avenida de Las Palmeras 4, 18100, Armilla, Granada, Spain
*
*E-mail address of corresponding author: cviseras@ugr.es
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Abstract

Clays are used in various cosmetic formulations, such as sunscreens, toothpastes, deodorants, creams, hair cosmetics, makeups, nail polish, facial masks, and shampoos, among others, to improve the organoleptic and physicochemical characteristics, to increase the stability, or to facilitate elaboration. Together with their technological functionalities, clays are cosmetologically active ingredients with cleaning, anti-aging, anti-wrinkling, and sun-care functionalities. Talc, kaolinite, mica, and some smectites are the clay minerals used most frequently in cosmetic products, but several other phyllosilicates as well as modified and synthetic clays are also used. Sometimes, clays are useful in the design of cosmetics just because they are made of rigid, small, and anisometric particles. Kaolinite and mica are made of hard prismatic particles which are lightly abrasive over the skin, teeth, or hair. Electric charges in smectites result in ion-exchange capacities useful in the loading of active cosmetics but also adsorbing and cleaning waste substances. Intermediate net negative charges of smectites result in layer expansion in polar media and specific rheological properties that are very useful in cosmetic formulations. The absence of charged particles in talc and kaolin make them flow easily resulting in lubricant effects. Protection against radiation from the sun by clay particles and decorative effects complete the possibilities of clays in cosmetics. The nomenclature for clays used as ingredients in cosmetics follows historical use and the names of commercial products, rather than following strict compositional principles. In this sense, an effort was made here to correlate the names of the minerals that make up each of the clay-based cosmetic ingredients.

Keywords

Clays and clay mineralsCosmeticsCosmetological functionsINCI namesPhyllosilicatesTrade names
Type
Article
Information
Clays and Clay Minerals , Volume 69 , Issue 5: Clay Minerals in Health Applications , October 2021 , pp. 561 - 575
Copyright
Copyright © The Clay Minerals Society 2021

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Footnotes

This paper belongs to a special issue on ‘Clay Minerals in Health Applications’

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