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My Lady's Toilet

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  05 January 2009

Extract

The modern miss will sometimes ask, ‘Did the ladies in ancient Greece and Rome use “make-up”?’ They most certainly did. It would, indeed, be true to say that nearly all modern artificial aids to beauty had their counterparts in classical antiquity: hair, eyebrows, eyelids, eyelashes, and cheeks all had their own ‘preparations’ guaranteed to enhance woman's natural charms.

In Homer, both sexes after washing anoint themselves with oil, but of cosmetics in the usual sense of the word there is no trace. Soon, however, the Greek ladies, finding, we are told, that the sedentary life imposed upon them by convention caused their complexions to fade, eagerly adopted those devices that the Eastern races had so long employed to add to their charms; and it is clear that the ladies of Rome became even more enthusiastic than their sisters in Athens in their endeavours to improve upon nature.

Frequently my lady did not bother to use cosmetics when at home—Quando videri vult formosa domi? Juvenal asks in disgust—but on special occasions, or when going to meet an admirer, she appeared in all her brilliance. The aid of white lead (Ψרμύθιοѵ, cerussa) was often called upon to produce a fair complexion, although its use cannot have been wholly free from risk; or a chalky powder (creta) was employed. Means of reddening the cheeks were obtained from the alkanet root (ἂγχoυνσα)—a dye which is still used to-day; from the crushed fruit of the mulberry (συκἁμινoν, morum) or the elderberry(acinus ebuli); from the poppy (papaver); and from a plant which we cannot identify (παιέρως) but which was guaranteed to give ‘that schoolgirl complexion’ a darker tint could be obtained from a composite preparation known as purpurissum.

Type
Research Article
Copyright
Copyright © The Classical Association 1946

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References

page 68 note 1 6. 464 sq.

page 68 note 2 2. 18. 31 sq.

page 69 note 1 e.g. Goodman, H., Cosmetic Dermatology, 349 sq.Google Scholar; Redgrave, H. S. and Foan, G. A., Blonde or Brunette? 24 sqq.Google Scholar

page 69 note 2 21. 19. 73; 23. 4. 51; 28. 11. 46.

page 69 note 3 A.A. 3. 203 sqq.

page 69 note 4 11. 37. 56.

page 69 note 5 2. 93 sq.: Supercilium madida fuligine tinctum Obliqua producit acu.

page 69 note 6 Sat. 110.

page 69 note 7 Oec. 10. 8: .

page 69 note 8 Apud Athen. 13. 557:

page 70 note 1 Med. fac. 51 sqq.

page 70 note 2 6. 461 sq.

page 70 note 3 6. 463.

page 71 note 1 C. 1. 5; 2.4. 13.

page 71 note 2 Goodman, op. cit., 373; Redgrove and Foan, op. cit. 64.

page 71 note 3 Am. 1. 14.

page 71 note 4 A.A. 3. 245 sqq.: Dictus eram subito cuidam venisse puellae; Turbida perversas induit ilia comas.Turpe pecus mutilum, turpis sine gramine campus, Et sine fronde frutex et sine crine caput.

page 72 note 1 10. 22.

page 72 note 2 11. 98. 6.

page 72 note 3 Smith, , Diet. Gr. and Rom. Ant.,Google Scholar s.v. ‘Fucus’.

page 72 note 4 12. 18. 41.

page 72 note 5 Ov. A.A. 3. 227 sqq.

page 72 note 6 Oec. 10.

page 73 note 1 Most. 1. 3.

page 73 note 2 A.A. 3. 210: Ars faciem dissimulata iuvat.