5 November–4 December 1914

… On the morning of 5 November and our tenth day from leaving Buenos Aires, the obscure outlines of a rugged and mountainous coast was dimly observed through the snow squalls immediately to the south. Unable to accurately determine a harbour entrance in the mist, we were pleasurably surprised to notice, making in our direction, a small craft, which on coming alongside proved to be the Sitka, a whaler from Leith Harbour. Captain Michelson her able skipper piloted us into Cumberland Bay, where the Endurance laid [at] anchor in a superb miniature haven, King Edward Cove. King Edward Cove is a small basin encircled by noble cliffs that rise precipitously above its sheltered waters some 1500 feet. Apart from the transcending scenery one is at once struck by the pungent effluvium which hangs obscure yet fluid-like over its greasy waters. This is an emanation from the Grytviken Whaling Station at the head of the cove, and from innumerable derelict whale carcasses that float in the vicinity. … At Grytviken, the carcasses are allowed to go to waste; so polluted are the foreshores of King Edward Cove with grease and decaying carcasses that it is impossible to view the trade with other than loathing. … South Georgia boasts a magistrate, customs officials, and a post-office and a meteorological station. A pleasing phase of our stay was the insistent hospitality tendered us by the principals – all of whom are Norwegian.