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23 - Fashion and Youth in Western Societies

Street Style and Race, c. 1830–1940

from Part IV - Fashion, Modernism, and Modernity

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  04 August 2023

Christopher Breward
Affiliation:
National Museums Scotland
Beverly Lemire
Affiliation:
University of Alberta
Giorgio Riello
Affiliation:
European University Institute, Florence
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Summary

Abram Dayton was unequivocal that, in the 1830s, the Bowery Boys (or B’hoys) of his native New York consciously adopted a distinct dress style, quite different from that of ‘the centre of fashion’, Broadway. Named for the street over which they reigned in lower Manhattan’s Five Points neighbourhood – ‘a hell-mouth of infamy and woe’ – the Bowery Boys were labouring men, many of them apprentices, who took great pride in their appearance. Nineteenth-century cities teemed with young people and the Bowery Boys are but one group of urban youths that, lacking the personal or vicarious status symbols of elite peers – money, profession, property, family pedigree – used distinctive dress and transgressive behaviour to challenge and differentiate themselves from the mainstream, express identity, assert agency, and show group allegiance. And while a uniform dress style potentially erodes individual identity, for many of the young people discussed in this chapter, personal identity was centred on membership of a particular group and the visual advertisement of this through adoption of the group’s dress style.

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The Cambridge Global History of Fashion
From the Nineteenth Century to the Present
, pp. 801 - 837
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Print publication year: 2023

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References

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