In 2016, I travelled with my colleague, Juvita, to visit her family in Uatu-Carbau, a sub-district in the eastern municipality of Viqueque. It was the annual celebration of Loron Matebian (All Souls’ Day) and I had been invited by one of her uncles to attend. He told me that it would be important for my research. While most of her family reside in the two adjoining villages of Irabin De Cima and Irabin de Baixo in Uatu-Carbau, we stayed overnight at Juvita's mother's home in Loiulo, a village much closer (although still several hours’ walk) to their uma lulik (sacred house), located further inland at the foot of Mount Matebian. Early in the morning we began our walk up the hill, but not before everyone had prepared their baskets of offerings – candles, flowers, and packets of cigarettes. The first stop was the knua rate (ancestral grave-site) of Juvita's mother's side, knua Baduria. The atmosphere was peaceful, casual, and there appeared (to me at least) to be very little formality. Children were running around, selfies were being taken, others were busily tidying graves – sweeping dead leaves and rubbish and removing old offerings before lighting new candles for the day. Then there were people navigating their way around with what appeared to be an extremely accurate memory of which graves to stop at and place offerings.