The importance of luxury textiles (both for clothing and furnishing) was at least as great and probably greater in the Middle Ages than it is now, when fashion rather than the quality of textiles often predominates. Clothing was not only a basic necessity for warmth and modesty, but also a medium the quality, softness, brilliance and drape of which could reflect individual taste and attitudes. Deliberate rejection of luxury cloth showed humility and piety, but deliberate adoption of it contributed to the public display of status and of effective power and authority. Subjects and clients admired justness, moderation, and even piety in their rulers and lords, but they also needed to know that these had the means to exercise authority and to protect followers. The size of a retinue, lavish feasting and generous largesse, and with these the display of fine clothing, all demonstrated the wealth which could underpin effective power. The finest cloths demonstrated the separation of rulers and ruled and always graced the greatest occasions of state and church, playing their part in coronations, episcopal enthronements, and triumphal processions.

England's own output of woollen textiles allowed substantial display of wealth through clothing and furnishing. English textiles ranged from simple homespun for the countryman to fine worsteds and well-made heavy fulled broadcloth dyed in a wide range of colours, the best cloth being worthy of being dyed in the most expensive scarlet kermes dye.