Skip to main content
    • Aa
    • Aa
  • Get access
    Check if you have access via personal or institutional login
  • Cited by 48
  • Cited by
    This article has been cited by the following publications. This list is generated based on data provided by CrossRef.

    Pedersen, G. 2016. Fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations for long wave propagation and run-up in sloping channels with parabolic cross sections. Natural Hazards,

    Pujara, Nimish Liu, Philip L.-F. and Yeh, Harry 2016. An integral treatment of friction during a swash uprush. Coastal Engineering, Vol. 114, p. 295.

    Drähne, Ulrike Goseberg, Nils Vater, Stefan Beisiegel, Nicole and Behrens, Jörn 2015. An Experimental and Numerical Study of Long Wave Run-Up on a Plane Beach. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, Vol. 4, Issue. 1, p. 1.

    Huang, Zhi-Cheng and Hwang, Kao-Shu 2015. Measurements of surface thermal structure, kinematics, and turbulence of a large-scale solitary breaking wave using infrared imaging techniques. Coastal Engineering, Vol. 96, p. 132.

    Inch, Kris Masselink, Gerd Puleo, Jack A. Russell, Paul and Conley, Daniel C. 2015. Vertical structure of near-bed cross-shore flow velocities in the swash zone of a dissipative beach. Continental Shelf Research, Vol. 101, p. 98.

    Jensen, Bjarne Christensen, Erik D. Mutlu Sumer, B. and Vistisen, Martin 2015. Flow and Turbulence at Rubble-Mound Breakwater Armor Layers under Solitary Wave. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, Vol. 141, Issue. 6, p. 04015006.

    Lin, Chang Kao, Ming-Jer Tzeng, Guang-Wei Wong, Wei-Ying Yang, James Raikar, Rajkumar V. Wu, Tso-Ren and Liu, Philip Li-Fang 2015. Study on Flow Fields of Boundary-Layer Separation and Hydraulic Jump during Rundown Motion of Shoaling Solitary Wave. Journal of Earthquake and Tsunami, Vol. 09, Issue. 05, p. 1540002.

    Lin, Chang Yeh, Po-Hung Kao, Ming-Jer Yu, Min-Hsuan Hsieh, Shih-Chun Chang, Sung-Chen Wu, Tso-Ren and Tsai, Ching-Piao 2015. Velocity Fields in Near-Bottom and Boundary Layer Flows in Prebreaking Zone of a Solitary Wave Propagating over a 1:10 Slope. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, Vol. 141, Issue. 3, p. 04014038.

    Pujara, Nimish Liu, Philip L.-F. and Yeh, Harry H. 2015. An experimental study of the interaction of two successive solitary waves in the swash: A strongly interacting case and a weakly interacting case. Coastal Engineering, Vol. 105, p. 66.

    Pujara, Nimish Liu, Philip L.-F. and Yeh, Harry 2015. The swash of solitary waves on a plane beach: flow evolution, bed shear stress and run-up. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 779, p. 556.

    Ayati, A.A. Kolaas, J. Jensen, A. and Johnson, G.W. 2014. A PIV investigation of stratified gas–liquid flow in a horizontal pipe. International Journal of Multiphase Flow, Vol. 61, p. 129.

    Jeon, Young Jin Chatellier, Ludovic and David, Laurent 2014. Fluid trajectory evaluation based on an ensemble-averaged cross-correlation in time-resolved PIV. Experiments in Fluids, Vol. 55, Issue. 7,

    Fenyvesi, Nora and Bene, Gyula 2013. Collision of water wave solitons. Open Physics, Vol. 11, Issue. 11,

    Lo, Hong-Yueh Park, Yong Sung and Liu, Philip L.-F. 2013. On the run-up and back-wash processes of single and double solitary waves — An experimental study. Coastal Engineering, Vol. 80, p. 1.

    Mo, Weihua Jensen, Atle and Liu, Philip L.-F. 2013. Plunging solitary wave and its interaction with a slender cylinder on a sloping beach. Ocean Engineering, Vol. 74, p. 48.

    Pedersen, G. K. Lindstro̸m, E. Bertelsen, A. F. Jensen, A. Laskovski, D. and Sælevik, G. 2013. Runup and boundary layers on sloping beaches. Physics of Fluids, Vol. 25, Issue. 1, p. 012102.

    Sælevik, G. Jensen, A. and Pedersen, G. 2013. Runup of solitary waves on a straight and a composite beach. Coastal Engineering, Vol. 77, p. 40.

    van Oudheusden, B W 2013. PIV-based pressure measurement. Measurement Science and Technology, Vol. 24, Issue. 3, p. 032001.

    Apotsos, Alex Gelfenbaum, Guy and Jaffe, Bruce 2012. Time-dependent onshore tsunami response. Coastal Engineering, Vol. 64, p. 73.

    TSUNG, Wen-Shuo HSIAO, Shih-Chun and LIN, Ting-Chieh 2012. Numerical simulation of solitary wave run-up and overtopping using Boussinesq-type model. Journal of Hydrodynamics, Ser. B, Vol. 24, Issue. 6, p. 899.

  • Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Volume 486
  • June 2003, pp. 161-188

An experimental study of wave run-up at a steep beach

  • DOI:
  • Published online: 01 June 2003

This paper presents experiments on run-up of strongly nonlinear waves on a beach of 10.54° inclination. Velocity fields are obtained by the PIV (particle image velocimetry) technique. Acceleration measurements are also attempted, but it is difficult to obtain useful results in every case. In addition, free-surface profiles are extracted from digital images and wave resistance probes. The investigation focuses on the dynamics of the early stages of the run-up, when steep fronts evolve in the vicinity of the equilibrium shoreline, but maximum run-up heights are also reported. Measurements on moderately nonlinear waves are compared to results from long-wave theories, including a numerical Boussinesq model and analytic shallow-water results from the literature. In particular the applicability of the long-wave theories is addressed. However, most attention is given to run-up of high incident solitary waves that are on the brink of breaking at the shoreline. In one case a temporarily slightly overturning wave front is found that neither develops into a plunger or displays appreciable spilling. This feature is discussed in view of measured velocity and acceleration patterns and with reference to the dam-break problem. Effects of scaling, as well as viscous damping, are also briefly discussed.

Recommend this journal

Email your librarian or administrator to recommend adding this journal to your organisation's collection.

Journal of Fluid Mechanics
  • ISSN: 0022-1120
  • EISSN: 1469-7645
  • URL: /core/journals/journal-of-fluid-mechanics
Please enter your name
Please enter a valid email address
Who would you like to send this to? *