This essay considers the entwined economic, political, and emotional significance of jewels and gems for Eleanor of Austria (1498–1558), twice queen consort of Portugal (1518–1521) and France (1530–1547). Over the past two decades, the sketchily evidenced contours of Eleanor's profile, as one of the most elusive elite women of the Habsburg dynasty, has started to emerge through research highlighting her cultural activities and diplomatic efforts. In addition, a small number of literary descriptions and portraits have generated useful publications on the sartorial politics of her Spanish imperial representation as a French queen consort. These studies are complemented by the pioneering – comprehensive – archival research of Eleanor's limited surviving inventories by Annemarie Jordan Gschwend. While this chapter draws on this valuable foundation, it specifically focuses on providing an interpretation of Eleanor's discerning deployment of jewels and gems. Profound value was attached to these precious, durable, symbolic, and recyclable objects within Eleanor's cultural heritage, with heirloom ornaments bestowed names and women's livelihoods literally equated with their jewels.

Therefore, the ensuing discussion not only demonstrates Eleanor's participation in the affective compensatory gifting culture of her familial network, but also her strategic self-adornment with these luxe accoutrements to communicate a carefully crafted composite cultural identity that moved beyond her imperial allegiance. Moreover, comparative examination of Eleanor's feminine exemplars and patterns of benefaction illuminate the personalised politics underpinning her wide-ranging matriarchal role and construction of a material maternal legacy through her collection and display of jewels and gems.