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1891: Note on the Theory of the Solitary Wave

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  01 June 2011

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Summary

In a paper on the Solitary Wave by Mr J. McCowan, printed in the July number of the Philosophical Magazine, for a copy of which I am indebted to the kindness of the author, he refers to a conclusion which I advanced in a paper written long since, and reprinted full ten years ago, according to which a solitary wave could not be propagated without change of form. As I have known for the last ten years that this conclusion was erroneous, and have published a paper in which the motion of a uniformly propagated solitary wave was considered, I am not concerned to defend it; but it may be well to point out the true source of the error, respecting which I cannot agree with Mr McCowan.

While the first volume of my ‘Collected Papers’ was going through the press, I was led to the conclusion (see p. 227) that the highest possible waves of the oscillatory kind (the motion being irrotational) presented a form in which the crests came to wedges of 120°. On reflecting on the application of this to very long waves propagated in water of which the depth is small compared with the length of wave, I was led to perceive that the conclusion above mentioned was erroneous, and also that the source of the error was that it was not sufficient, even though a solitary wave were very long, to treat it as indefinitely long, and consequently to take the horizontal velocity as the same from the surface to the bottom.

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Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Print publication year: 2009
First published in: 1905

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