Over the years, I learnt the secrets of making Darjeeling vintages. The orthodox way of withering entails exposing the freshly plucked leaf to an air stream. This eliminates the excess moisture inherent in the leaf. Then it is rolled to catalyse fermentation and to impart leaf style. The cells are ruptured, and their essences are kneaded into the roll. Fermentation is essentially a process of decay. The same phenomenon occurs when a fruit is picked and allowed to remain for a few days in the pantry. This process of death releases the enzymes that are so essential for developing the aroma and infusion of the tea.

After the initial First Flush bounty, the tea bushes are lulled to a non-productive period of four to five weeks. This is called the ‘banji’ period between mid April to mid May. From November till April, there is scarcely any rainfall, so the region acquires a dry, arid look.

During the banji period, fast moving rain bearing clouds sweep up from the Bay of Bengal, and on collision with the Himalayan foothills, inundate the Darjeeling district with short, but fierce bursts of precipitation. These are the aweinspiring norwesters. In a flash, dark clouds appear out of clear blue skies. The lashing is intense, with copious rain, accompanied by streaks of lightning and deafening thunderbolts. God help those who do not unhook their electronics, as they blow up instantly.