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Laboratory studies of the role of bandwidth in surface transport and energy dissipation of deep-water breaking waves
- James T. Sinnis, Laurent Grare, Luc Lenain, Nick Pizzo
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- Journal:
- Journal of Fluid Mechanics / Volume 927 / 25 November 2021
- Published online by Cambridge University Press:
- 20 September 2021, A5
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This paper presents laboratory measurements of surface transport due to non-breaking and breaking deep-water focusing surface wave packets and examines the dependence of the transport on the wave packet bandwidth, $\varDelta$. This extends the work of Deike et al. (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 829, 2017, pp. 364–391) and Lenain et al. (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 876, 2019, p. R1), where similar numerical and laboratory experiments were conducted, but the bandwidth was held constant. In this paper, it is shown that the transport is strongly affected by the bandwidth. A model for the horizontal length scale of the breaking region is proposed that incorporates the bandwidth, central frequency, the linear prediction of the slope at focusing and the breaking threshold slope of the wave packet. This is then evaluated with data from archived and new laboratory experiments, and agreement is found. Furthermore, the horizontal length scale of the breaking region implies modifications to the model of the energy dissipation rate from Drazen et al. (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 611, 2008, pp. 307–332). This modification accounts for differing trends in the dissipation rate caused by the bandwidth in the available laboratory data.
Growth and dissipation of wind-forced, deep-water waves
- Laurent Grare, William L. Peirson, Hubert Branger, James W. Walker, Jean-Paul Giovanangeli, Vladimir Makin
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- Journal:
- Journal of Fluid Mechanics / Volume 722 / 10 May 2013
- Published online by Cambridge University Press:
- 28 March 2013, pp. 5-50
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The input of energy by wind to water waves is compared with the observed growth of the waves using a suite of microphysical measurement techniques in the laboratory. These include measured tangential stresses in the water and air immediately adjacent to the interface with corresponding form drag measurements above wind-forced freely propagating waves. The drag data sets are consistent but the comparison has highlighted important issues in relation to the measurement of fluctuating pressures above freely propagating waves. Derived normalized wind input values show good collapse as a function of mean wave steepness and are significantly in excess of the assembly of net wave growth measurements by Peirson & Garcia (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 608, 2008, pp. 243–274) at low steepness. Sheltering coefficients in the form of Jeffreys (Proc. R. Soc. Lond. Ser. A, vol. 107, 1925, pp. 189–206) are derived that are consistent with values previously obtained by Donelan & Pierson (J. Geophys. Res., vol. 92, 1987, pp. 4971–5029), Donelan (Wind-over-Wave Couplings: Perspectives and Prospects, Clarendon, 1999, pp. 183–194) and Donelan et al. (J. Phys. Oceanogr., vol. 36, 2006, pp. 1672–1689). The sheltering coefficients exhibit substantial scatter. By carefully measuring the associated growth of the surface wave fields, systematic energy budgets for the interaction between wind and waves are obtained. For non-breaking waves, there is a significant and systematic misclose in the radiative transfer equation if wave–turbulence interactions are not included. Significantly higher levels of turbulent wave attenuation are found in comparison with the theoretical estimates by Teixeira & Belcher (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 458, 2002, pp. 229–267) and Ardhuin & Jenkins (J. Phys. Oceanogr., vol. 36, 2006, pp. 551–557). Suitable normalizations of attenuation for wind-forced wave fields exhibit consistent behaviour in the presence and absence of wave breaking. Closure of the surface energy flux budget is obtained by comparing the normalized energy loss rates due to breaking with the values previously determined by Banner & Peirson (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 585, 2007, pp. 93–115) and Drazen et al.(J. Fluid Mech., vol. 611, 2008, pp. 307–332) when expressed as a function of mean wave steepness. Their normalized energy loss rates obtained for non-wind forced breaking wave groups are remarkably consistent with the levels found during this present study when breaking waves are subject to wind forcing.