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  • Cited by 17
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    Bourodimos, E.L. 1968. Gravity wave shoaling and transformation in shallow water. Ocean Engineering, Vol. 1, Issue. 1, p. 39.

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    Holland, T.K. 2001. Application of the linear dispersion relation with respect to depth inversion and remotely sensed imagery. IEEE Transactions on Geoscience and Remote Sensing, Vol. 39, Issue. 9, p. 2060.

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  • Print publication year: 2009
  • Online publication date: September 2010
  • First published in: 1880

On the Theory of Oscillatory Waves


In the Report of the Fourteenth Meeting of the British Association for the Advancement of Science it is stated by Mr Russell, as a result of his experiments, that the velocity of propagation of a series of oscillatory waves does not depend on the height of the waves. A series of oscillatory waves, such as that observed by Mr Russell, does not exactly agree with what it is most convenient, as regards theory, to take as the type of oscillatory waves. The extreme waves of such a series partake in some measure of the character of solitary waves, and their height decreases as they proceed. In fact it will presently appear that it is only an indefinite series of waves which possesses the property of being propagated with a uniform velocity, and without change of form: at least this is the case when the waves are such as can be propagated along the surface of a fluid which was previously at rest. The middle waves, however, of a series such as that observed by Mr Russell agree very nearly with oscillatory waves of the standard form. Consequently, the velocity of propagation determined by the observation of a number of waves, according to Mr Russell's method, rmist be very nearly the same as the velocity of propagation of a series of oscillatory waves of the standard form, and whose length is equal to the mean length of the waves observed, which are supposed to differ from each other but slightly in length.

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