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On dispersion of directional surface gravity waves

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  05 January 2017

Tore Magnus A. Taklo ,
Karsten Trulsen ,
Harald E. Krogstad  and
José Carlos Nieto Borge
Tore Magnus A. Taklo
Affiliation:
Department of Mathematics, University of Oslo, Blindern, 0316 Oslo, Norway
Karsten Trulsen*
Affiliation:
Department of Mathematics, University of Oslo, Blindern, 0316 Oslo, Norway
Harald E. Krogstad
Affiliation:
Department of Mathematical Sciences, Norwegian University of Science and Technology, 7491 Trondheim, Norway
José Carlos Nieto Borge
Affiliation:
Department of Signal Theory and Communications, University of Alcalá, Plaza de San Diego, s/n, 28801 Alcalá de Henares, Madrid, Spain
*
†Email address for correspondence: karstent@math.uio.no
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Abstract

Using a nonlinear evolution equation we examine the dependence of the dispersion of directional surface gravity waves on the Benjamin–Feir index (BFI) and crest length. A parameter for describing the deviation between the dispersion of simulated waves and the theoretical linear dispersion relation is proposed. We find that for short crests the magnitude of the deviation parameter is low while for long crests the magnitude is high and depends on the BFI. In the present paper we also consider laboratory data of directional waves from the Marine Research Institute of the Netherlands (MARIN). The MARIN data confirm the simulations for three cases of BFI and crest length.

JFM classification

Waves/Free-surface Flows: Surface gravity waves Waves/Free-surface Flows: Waves/Free-surface Flows
Type
Papers
Information
Journal of Fluid Mechanics , Volume 812 , 10 February 2017 , pp. 681 - 697
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Copyright
© 2017 Cambridge University Press 

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