Skip to main content
    • Aa
    • Aa
  • Get access
    Check if you have access via personal or institutional login
  • Cited by 137
  • Cited by
    This article has been cited by the following publications. This list is generated based on data provided by CrossRef.

    Choudhary, A. and Martha, S. C. 2016. Vol. 1738, Issue. , p. 480015.

    Choudhary, A. and Martha, S.C. 2016. Diffraction of surface water waves by an undulating bed topography in the presence of vertical barrier. Ocean Engineering, Vol. 122, p. 32.

    Gouin, M. Ducrozet, G. and Ferrant, P. 2016. Development and validation of a non-linear spectral model for water waves over variable depth. European Journal of Mechanics - B/Fluids, Vol. 57, p. 115.

    Liu, Yong Li, Hua-jun and Zhu, Lei 2016. Bragg reflection of water waves by multiple submerged semi-circular breakwaters. Applied Ocean Research, Vol. 56, p. 67.

    Mohapatra, Smrutiranjan 2016. The interaction of oblique flexural gravity waves with a small bottom deformation on a porous ocean-bed: Green’s function approach. Journal of Marine Science and Application, Vol. 15, Issue. 2, p. 112.

    Ouyang, Huei-Tau Chen, Kue-Hong and Tsai, Chi-Ming 2016. Wave characteristics of Bragg reflections from a train of submerged bottom breakwaters. Journal of Hydro-environment Research, Vol. 11, p. 91.

    Shih, Ruey-Syan and Weng, Wen-Kai 2016. Experimental determination of the performance characteristics of an undulating submerged obstacle. Ships and Offshore Structures, Vol. 11, Issue. 2, p. 129.

    Shih, Ruey-Syan and Weng, Wen-Kai 2016. A Study of Long Wave Attenuation over Composite Undulating Breakwaters. Journal of Coastal Research, Vol. 317, p. 78.

    Tsai, Chia-Cheng Lin, Yueh-Ting Chang, Jen-Yi and Hsu, Tai-Wen 2016. A coupled-mode study on weakly viscous Bragg scattering of surface gravity waves. Ocean Engineering, Vol. 122, p. 136.

    Couston, Louis-Alexandre Guo, Qiuchen Chamanzar, Maysamreza and Alam, Mohammad-Reza 2015. Fabry-Perot resonance of water waves. Physical Review E, Vol. 92, Issue. 4,

    Liu, Huan-Wen Luo, Heng and Zeng, Hui-Dan 2015. Optimal Collocation of Three Kinds of Bragg Breakwaters for Bragg Resonant Reflection by Long Waves. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, Vol. 141, Issue. 3, p. 04014039.

    Mohapatra, Smrutiranjan 2015. Scattering of oblique surface waves by the edge of small deformation on a porous ocean bed. Journal of Marine Science and Application, Vol. 14, Issue. 2, p. 156.

    Monismith, Stephen G. Rogers, Justin S. Koweek, David and Dunbar, Robert B. 2015. Frictional wave dissipation on a remarkably rough reef. Geophysical Research Letters, Vol. 42, Issue. 10, p. 4063.

    Muñoz Grajales, Juan Carlos 2015. Propagation of Water Waves over Uneven Bottom under the Effect of Surface Tension. International Journal of Differential Equations, Vol. 2015, p. 1.

    Xu, Dali Lin, Zhiliang and Liao, Shijun 2015. Equilibrium states of class-I Bragg resonant wave system. European Journal of Mechanics - B/Fluids, Vol. 50, p. 38.

    Zhang, Huaguo Lou, Xiulin Li, Yan Shi, Aiqin Li, Dongling and Fu, Bin 2015. Whitecap features induced by submarine sand waves in stereo optical imagery. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, Vol. 120, Issue. 9, p. 6225.

    2015. Water Wave Scattering.

    Alam, Mohammad-Reza 2014. Predictability horizon of oceanic rogue waves. Geophysical Research Letters, Vol. 41, Issue. 23, p. 8477.

    Elandt, Ryan B. Shakeri, Mostafa and Alam, Mohammad-Reza 2014. Surface gravity-wave lensing. Physical Review E, Vol. 89, Issue. 2,

    Hsu, Tai-Wen Lin, Jian-Feng Hsiao, Shih-Chun Ou, Shan-Hwei Babanin, Alexander V. and Wu, Yun-Ta 2014. Wave reflection and vortex evolution in Bragg scattering in real fluids. Ocean Engineering, Vol. 88, p. 508.

  • Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Volume 152
  • March 1985, pp. 315-335

Resonant reflection of surface water waves by periodic sandbars

  • Chiang C. Mei (a1)
  • DOI:
  • Published online: 01 April 2006

One of the possible mechanisms of forming offshore sandbars parallel to a coast is the wave-induced mass transport in the boundary layer near the sea bottom. For this mechanism to be effective, sufficient reflection must be present so that the waves are partially standing. The main part of this paper is to explain a theory that strong reflection can be induced by the sandbars themselves, once the so-called Bragg resonance condition is met. For constant mean depth and simple harmonic waves this resonance has been studied by Davies (1982), whose theory, is however, limited to weak reflection and fails at resonance. Comparison of the strong reflection theory with Heathershaw's (1982) experiments is made. Furthermore, if the incident waves are slightly detuned or slowly modulated in time, the scattering process is found to depend critically on whether the modulational frequency lies above or below a threshold frequency. The effects of mean beach slope are also studied. In addition, it is found for periodically modulated wave groups that nonlinear effects can radiate long waves over the bars far beyond the reach of the short waves themselves. Finally it is argued that the breakpoint bar of ordinary size formed by plunging breakers can provide enough reflection to initiate the first few bars, thereby setting the stage for resonant reflection for more bars.

Recommend this journal

Email your librarian or administrator to recommend adding this journal to your organisation's collection.

Journal of Fluid Mechanics
  • ISSN: 0022-1120
  • EISSN: 1469-7645
  • URL: /core/journals/journal-of-fluid-mechanics
Please enter your name
Please enter a valid email address
Who would you like to send this to? *