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14 - Fashion and Moral Concern in Early Modern Japan

from Part III - Many Worlds of Fashion

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  04 August 2023

Christopher Breward
Affiliation:
National Museums of Scotland
Beverly Lemire
Affiliation:
University of Alberta
Giorgio Riello
Affiliation:
European University Institute, Florence
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Summary

In the 1580s Japan began to extricate itself from a barely imaginable 100-year civil war. Fighting had not been continuous, nor everywhere, but bloodshed had been prevalent enough to form what has been called a ‘culture of civil war’.1 The capital, Kyoto (kyōto means ‘capital’) was reduced to ruins. Its historic grid had been wiped away. The sovereign, ancestor of today’s emperor of Japan, had long since ceased to enjoy his ancient titles, and was known metonymically merely as ‘the palace’, though in truth, he was as likely to be lodging in a warlord’s mansion. People at the time defined their world as gekokujō, ‘those below overthrowing those above’ – the literal meaning of revolution.

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Chapter
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The Cambridge Global History of Fashion
From Antiquity to the Nineteenth Century
, pp. 472 - 499
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
Print publication year: 2023

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