KAORI MURAJI'S SPAIN

Music time. Classical guitar time. An evening concert by the infinitely talented Kaori Muraji with the New Japan Philharmonic Orchestra.

But, first, trains. Mukōgaoka-yūen to Shin-Yurigaoka and a change there to the Tama Expressbound for Odakyū-Tama Centre. By repute this was concrete suburbia, a grey city outpost 20 kms from Central Tokyo. So in the 1970s the powers invented Tama New Town (Tama Nyū taun), a 200,000 population ‘housing development’ served by three intersecting Lines – the Odakyū Tama, the Keio Sagamihara and the overhead Tama Toshi Monorail.

So what holds? Nothing if not glorious oddity. First has to be names. The centrepiece is the Greek-named Tama Sentah Parutenon (Tama Centre Parthenon), a pathway (Parutenon ōdori) through malllike stores and shops rising upwards towards the galleried culturecomplex. A kind of would-be Champs Elysée main artery. Only not. Actually far from it.

First it is out of the station and into the street. Follow the signs. Then it is eyes left and right and follow more signs.

Parutnenon-ōdori leads on to a run of sub-Elysian steps, if not a stairway to heaven then to the bit of greenery beyond.

To be sure there is the Concert Hall. But there is also, off to the left, the SANRIO PUROLAN, a games and show-time fantasy playground for children and dedicated to the cult anime-cartoon cats KITTY and DANIEL. You enter via a Stargate-style arch with Disneyland turreted walls to both sides.

Flocks of infants go there with their flocks of parents. Not cheap. On 2009 prices, ¥7300 per adult, ¥2000 per child, under 4s. free. Infinite adoration and gazing. Kitty parades. Kitty performances. Kitty photo booths. Store-shelves of HELLO KITTY doll sales.

The Centre also holds other jewels. The Living Faith United Methodist Church which also offers free English and Chinese classes. A huge Mitsukoshi Department Store. A ‘green’ business complex (the CSK Centre). A Warner-Mycal Cineplex. Under the rail-tracks a free-trade zone had emerged. A swap-meet.

Plus due eateries and every manner of small shop.