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  3. Breaking and Dissipation of Ocean Surface Waves
  • Cited by 167
Publisher:
Cambridge University Press
Online publication date:
October 2011
Print publication year:
2011
Online ISBN:
9780511736162
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511736162
Subjects:
Mathematics, Earth and Environmental Sciences, Fluid Dynamics and Solid Mechanics, Oceanography and Marine Science
Information

Book description

Wave breaking represents one of the most interesting and challenging problems for fluid mechanics and physical oceanography. Over the last fifteen years our understanding has undergone a dramatic leap forward, and wave breaking has emerged as a process whose physics is clarified and quantified. Ocean wave breaking plays the primary role in the air-sea exchange of momentum, mass and heat, and it is of significant importance for ocean remote sensing, coastal and ocean engineering, navigation and other practical applications. This book outlines the state of the art in our understanding of wave breaking and presents the main outstanding problems. It is a valuable resource for anyone interested in this topic, including researchers, modellers, forecasters, engineers and graduate students in physical oceanography, meteorology and ocean engineering.

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