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From the Parochial to the Universal: Comparing Cloth Cultures in the Bronze Age

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  25 January 2017

Susanna Harris
Susanna Harris*
Affiliation:
Institute of Archaeology, University College London, UK
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Abstract

The aim of this research is to compare the cloth cultures of Europe and Egypt in the Bronze Age and New Kingdom. The comparison focuses on the fourteenth century cal BC and includes four geographically separate areas, including the oak coffin burials of southern Scandinavia, the Hallstatt salt mines of central Europe, Late Minoan Crete, and the tombs and towns of the later Eighteenth Dynasty of Egypt. The comparative approach can bring insights even when applied to unconnected cultures or regions. However, in this study I concentrate on a restricted chronological period and areas that were connected, directly or indirectly, by widespread networks of trade or exchange. The concept of cloth cultures is used to include both textiles and animal skins as these were closely related materials in the prehistoric past. Information was gathered according to the following categories: raw materials, including textile fibre, and species of skins; fabric structure and thread count (only for textiles); decoration and finish; and use and context. From this study, it is possible to recognize the universally shared principles of cloth cultures and the great versatility and creativity in the regional cloth cultures of the Bronze Age.

Le but de cette étude est la comparaison des cultures de tissus en Europe et en Égypte pendant l'Âge du Bronze et le Nouvel Royaume. Cette comparaison se concentre sur le 14e siècle BC et quatre régions géographiquement distinctes, incluant les sépultures dans les cercueils en chêne de la Scandinavie méridionale, les mines de sel de Hallstatt en Europe centrale, la Minoenne récente en Crète et les tombeaux et les villes d'Egypte de la fin de la 18e dynastie. L'approche comparative, même appliquée à des cultures ou régions non connectées, est toutefois capable de fournir des résultats. Néanmoins je me concentre dans cette étude à une période chronologique limitée et à des régions reliées, directement ou indirectement, par des réseaux de commerce ou d'échange. Le concept de ‘cultures de tissus’ est utilisé afin d'inclure aussi bien les textiles que les peaux d'animaux, dans la mesure où ceux-ci étaient, dans le passé préhistorique, des matériaux étroitement liés. Les informations sont rassemblées selon les catégories suivantes : matériaux bruts incluant fibres de textile et espèces de peaux, structure du tissu et tissage (uniquement pour textiles), décoration et finition, utilisation et contexte. Cette étude nous permet d'identifier les principes universellement partagés des cultures de tissus et la grande polyvalence et créativité dans les cultures de tissus régionales durant l'Âge du Bronze. Translation by Isabelle Gerges.

Zusammenfassung

Zusammenfassung

Das Ziel dieser Studie ist es, die Textilekulturen von Europa und Ägypten in der Bronzezeit und dem Neuen Reich zu vergleichen. Der Vergleich konzentriert sich auf das 14. Jh. v. Chr. und schließt vier geographisch unabhängige Gebiete ein, darunter die Baumsargbestattungen Südskandinaviens, die hallstattzeitlichen Salzbergwerke Mitteleuropas, die späte Minoische Kultur auf Kreta sowie die Gräber und Städte der späteren 18. Dynastie in Ägypten. Der vergleichende Ansatz ermöglicht Erkenntnisse selbst bei der Anwendung auf miteinander unverbundene Kulturen oder Gebiete. In dieser Studie konzentriert sich die Verf. jedoch auf eine begrenzte chronologische Periode und miteinander – direkt oder indirekt – durch weite Handels- oder Austauschnetzwerke miteinander verbundene Gebiete. Das Konzept von Textilekulturen wird für Textilien wie auch Tierhäute gleichermaßen genutzt, da diese in der Vorgeschichte eng miteinander verbundene Materialien waren. Für die folgenden Kategorien wurden Informationen erfasst: Rohmaterialien einschließlich Textilfasern und Arten von Tierhäuten, Faserstruktur und Fadenanzahl (nur bei Textilien), Dekoration und Konfektionierung, Nutzung und Kontext. Durch diese Studie ist es möglich, die allgemein geteilten Prinzipien von Textilekulturen und die große Vielseitigkeit und Kreativität der regionalen Textilekultur der Bronzezeit zu erkennen. Translation by Heiner Schwarzberg.

Keywords

textilesanimal skinsBronze Agecloth cultureclothingtextilespeaux d'animauxÂge du Bronzeculture de tissusvêtementsTextilienTierhäuteBronzezeitTextilekulturKleidung
Type
Articles
Information
European Journal of Archaeology , Volume 15 , Issue 1 , 2012 , pp. 61 - 97
Copyright
Copyright © European Association of Archaeologists 2012 

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