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The Fabric of War

The Material Culture and Social Lives of Banners in Renaissance Europe

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  14 July 2025

John Gagné
Affiliation:
University of Sydney
Timothy McCall
Affiliation:
Villanova University

Summary

The Fabric of War traces the rich history of flags and banners in Renaissance Europe through a critical analysis of the cultural, ideological, material, and artistic histories of these complex and ubiquitous objects. It examines banners as numinous textiles that animated and adorned battle, energized and embellished armies, constructed and celebrated victory. Though flags are often investigated as mere symbols to be deciphered – as heraldic code revealing identity – they were vibrant and charismatic textiles whose mutability, movement, and multivalency constituted their appeal and salience. Banners propelled their viewers not only to decipher or identify, but to act.

Information

Figure 0

Figure 1 Peter Paul Rubens, over the drawing of a sixteenth-century artist after Leonardo da Vinci’s Fight for the Standard, ca. 1550s and 1600. Black chalk, pen, brown ink, brown wash, and oil. Paris, Musée du Louvre, Département des Arts Graphiques, 20.271.

Alamy Photo.
Figure 1

Figure 2 Spanish artisans, leather box for King François I’s pennant taken at the Battle of Pavia, 1525. Baltimore, The Walters Art Museum, 73.1.

Photo: The Walters Art Museum.
Figure 2

Figure 3 January 6, 2021, insurrection.

Photo Michael Nigro, Pacific Press Media/Alamy Photo.
Figure 3

Figure 4 Psalm 59 (60), Horseman with draco, in Golden Psalter (Psalterium aureum), late ninth century. St. Gallen, Stiftsbibliothek, Cod. Sang. 22, fol. 140.

Photo courtesy St. Gallen, Stiftsbibliothek.
Figure 4

Figure 5 German artist, The Resurrection, with Augustinian nuns, in Homiliary, ca. 1320. Baltimore, The Walters Art Museum, W.148, fol. 2 v.

Photo: The Walters Art Museum.
Figure 5

Figure 6 Giotto, Noli Me Tangere, 1303–05. Padua, Scrovegni Chapel.

Photo: Manuel Cohen/Art Resource, NY.
Figure 6

Figure 7 A Habsburg soldier cuts a fragment from Bern’s banner, in Tschachtlans Bilderchronik, 1470. Zürich, Zentralbibliothek, MS A 120, fol. 68.

Photo courtesy Zürich, Zentralbibliothek.
Figure 7

Figure 8 Master of the Coronation Book, the Bishop of Paris blesses the Oriflamme(s), in Coronation Book of King Charles V, ca. 1378. London, British Library, Cotton Tiberius B VIII/2, fol. 73 r.

Photo: British Library.
Figure 8

Figure 9 Albrecht Dürer, the Standard-Bearer, 1500–03. 11.6 × 7.1 cm. Engraving. Washington, National Gallery of Art, 1943.3.3480.Figure 9 long description.

Photo courtesy National Gallery of Art, Washington.
Figure 9

Figure 10 Jörg Schweiger (attributed, after Urs Graf), woman with sword and banner, 1520–25. Pen drawing. Basel, Kunstmuseum Basel, Kupferstichkabinett, Amerbach-Kabinett 1662, U.IX.51.

Photo courtesy Kunstmuseum Basel.
Figure 10

Figure 11 Joan of Arc, in the protocols of Parisian parlement by the clerk Clément de Fauquembergue, 1429. Paris, Archives nationales de France, Registres du Conseil du Parlement de Paris, AE/II/447 (X1a 1481), fol. 12 r.Figure 11 long description.

Photo © RMN-Grand Palais/Art Resource, NY.
Figure 11

Figure 12 Peter Wendschatz saves Bern’s banner at Laubegg (1342), in Diebold Schilling, Spiezer Chronik, 1480s. Bern, Burgerbibliothek, Mss.h.h.I.16, fol. 327.

Photo courtesy Bern, Burgerbibliothek.
Figure 12

Figure 13 Julius Banner of Zürich with red streamer, 1512. 180 × 367 cm. Silk damask with embroidery. Zürich, Landesmuseum Zürich, DEP-850.Figure 13 long description.

Photo courtesy of Schweizerisches Nationalmuseum.
Figure 13

Figure 14 Diebold Schilling, Amtliche Berner Chronik, 1478–83. Bern, Burgerbibliothek, MSS.h.h.I.3, vol. 3, fol. 829.

Photo courtesy Bern, Burgerbibliothek.
Figure 14

Figure 15 A Burgundian cornette, in Pierre Crolot, Livre de Drapeaux, 1647–48. Fribourg, State Archives, Législation et variétés 53, fol. 91 r.

Photo courtesy Fribourg, State Archives.
Figure 15

Figure 16 Bern’s black bear attacks Burgundian soldiers at the Battle of Nancy (1477), in Diebold Schilling, Amtliche Berner Chronik, 1478–83. Bern, Burgerbibliothek, MSS.h.h.I.3, vol. 3, fol. 846.

Photo courtesy Bern, Burgerbibliothek.
Figure 16

Figure 17 Banner of Charles the Bold, 1470s, with current deteriorated state on left and artist’s reconstruction of original appearance on right. Painted silk. Zürich, Landesmuseum Zürich, KZ-5734.Figure 17 long description.

Photo courtesy of Schweizerisches Nationalmuseum. Reconstruction by Sabine Lange, published in Mäder, 1994: fig. 3.
Figure 17

Figure 18 Pennon with Je lay emprins motto of Charles the Bold, 1460s-70s. Paint and gold leaf on silk. Bern, Bernisches Historisches Museum, H/16/c.

Photo © Bern History Museum, Bern. Photograph Stefan Rebsamen.
Figure 18

Figure 19 Burgundian standard of John the Evangelist, before 1476. Solothurn, Museum Altes Zeughaus, MAZ 1135.

Photo Nicole Hänni.
Figure 19

Figure 20 Painted silk taffeta banner, ca. 1490. Zürich, Landesmuseum Zürich, KZ-5725.

Photo courtesy of Schweizerisches Nationalmuseum.
Figure 20

Figure 21 Burgundian banner of St George (and detail), before 1477. Solothurn, Museum Altes Zeughaus, MAZ 1145.Figure 21 long description.

Photo Nicole Hänni.
Figure 21

Figure 22 Agnes van den Bossche, Maid of Ghent, 1481–82. Oil and gold leaf on linen with silk fringes. Ghent, STAM Citymuseum, 00787.

Photo: STAM Citymuseum Ghent.
Figure 22

Figure 23 Banner of the Butchers’ Guild of Bern, ca. 1500. Bern, Bernisches Historisches Museum, H/509/1.

Photo © Bern History Museum, Bern. Photograph Stefan Rebsamen.
Figure 23

Figure 24 Hank Willis Thomas, With All Deliberate Speed, 2018. Screenprint on retroflective vinyl.

Photo © Hank Willis Thomas. All rights reserved. Photographic credit: The Soiling of Old Glory (1976) published by the Boston Herald; photographer: Stanley Forman.
Figure 24

Figure 25 Leonardo da Vinci, study for right side of the Battle of Anghiari, 1503–04. Black chalk. Windsor Castle, Royal Library, 12339 r.

Photo © Royal Collection Enterprises Limited 2025 | Royal Collection Trust.
Figure 25

Figure 26 Raphael, sketch after Leonardo’s Fight for the Standard (from page with studies for Holy Trinity with Saints in San Severo, Perugia), ca. 1505. Silverpoint. Oxford, Ashmolean Museum, KP II 535 (WA 1846.176).

Photo © Ashmolean Museum, University of Oxford.
Figure 26

Figure 27 Unknown painter close to Apollonio di Giovanni, The Battle of Anghiari, 1460s. Spalliera? Tempera and gold leaf on panel. Dublin, National Gallery of Ireland, NGI.778.Figure 27 long description.

Photo: National Gallery of Ireland.
Figure 27

Figure 28 Unknown painter close to Apollonio di Giovanni, Men discarding Pisa’s flag and planting Florence’s, detail from The Taking of Pisa, 1460s. Spalliera? Tempera and gold leaf on panel. Dublin, National Gallery of Ireland, NGI.780.

Photo: National Gallery of Ireland.
Figure 28

Figure 29 The central battle with Milanese standards falling (detail of Figure 27).Figure 29 long description.

Photo: National Gallery of Ireland.
Figure 29

Figure 30 Florentines parading Milanese standards into Anghiari with leaders arrayed at right under their flags (detail of Figure 27).

Photo: National Gallery of Ireland.
Figure 30

Figure 31 Annunciation Eckquartier from Julius Banner of Basel (and detail), ca. 1512. Basel, Historisches Museum, 1892.92.

Photo © Historisches Museum Basel, Peter Portner.
Figure 31

Figure 32 Eckquartier (detail of Figure 34) from Julius Banner of Solothurn, ca. 1512. Solothurn, Museum Altes Zeughaus, MAZ 1108.Figure 32 long description.

Photo Nicole Hänni.
Figure 32

Figure 33 Hans Rüegger, Julius Banners (Wie vnser heiligester vattor bapst den. Xij. ortten d’Eidgnoschafft vnd andern Jre paner mit sunder zeichn des lidens cristi begabt hat), 1513. Engraving. Zürich, Zentralbibliothek, Graphische Sammlung und Fotoarchiv, 3756.Figure 33 long description.

Photo courtesy Zürich, Zentralbibliothek.
Figure 33

Figure 34 Hans Rüegger, banner-bearer of Solothurn (detail of Figure 33). Julius Banner, ca. 1512. Solothurn, Museum Altes Zeughaus, MAZ 108.Figure 34 long description.

Photo Nicole Hänni.
Figure 34

Figure 35 Matteo de’ Pasti, Between fortress and ship, in Roberto Valturio, De Re Militari (On the Military Arts), 1472. Woodcut. New York, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 26.71.4, fol. 192 v.Figure 35 long description.

Photo: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York.
Figure 35

Figure 36 Drawing with measurements for the large standard at Castel Sant’Angelo, from a papal order for banners, sixteenth century. Vatican City, Biblioteca Apostolica Vaticana, MS Vat. Lat. 12343, fol. 104 r.

Photo courtesy of the Biblioteca Apostolica Vaticana. All rights reserved.
Figure 36

Figure 37 Giovanni Battista Scultori, Castel Sant’Angelo, 1540–60. Engraving. London, British Museum, 1869,01612.369.

Photo © The Trustees of the British Museum. All rights reserved.
Figure 37

Figure 38 Soldiers of Emperor Henry VI planting the imperial vexillum on one of Salerno’s towers, in Pietro da Eboli, Liber ad honorem Augusti, 1196. Bern, Burgerbibliothek, MS Cod. 120.II, fol. 132 r.Figure 38 long description.

Photo courtesy Bern, Burgerbibliothek.
Figure 38

Figure 39 Eike von Repgow, Heidelberger Sachsenspiegel, early fourteenth century. Heidelberg, Universitätsbibliothek, Cod. Pal. germ. 164, fol. 21 r.

Photo courtesy Universitätsbibliothek Heidelberg.
Figure 39

Figure 40 Giovanni Villani, Nuova Cronica, 1341–48. Vatican City, Biblioteca Apostolica Vaticana, MS Chig.L.VIII.296, fol. 143 v.Figure 40 long description.

Photo courtesy of the Biblioteca Apostolica Vaticana. All rights reserved.
Figure 40

Figure 41 Florentine or Neapolitan artist (often attributed to Francesco Rosselli), Ships trailing flags in water, detail from the Tavola Strozzi, 1470-80s. Tempera on panel. Naples, Museo Nazionale di San Martino.

Photo: Scala/Ministero per i Beni e le Attività culturali/Art Resource, NY.
Figure 41

Figure 42 Ottoman artist, ‘Ubayd ibn Harith and Hamza ibn ‘Abd al-Muttalib, the Prophet’s elderly uncle, advance at the head of a force against Abu Jahl, in Erzurumlu Mustafa Darir, Siyer-i Nebi (1388), 1594–95. London, Khalili Collection, MSS 152.2.

Photo courtesy Khalili Collection.
Figure 42

Figure 43 Mughal School, Babur and his army acclaiming the standards, in Baburnama, 1589. London, British Museum, 1948,1009,0.71.Figure 43 long description.

Photo © The Trustees of the British Museum. All rights reserved.
Figure 43

Figure 44 Codex Telleriano-Remensis, illustrated 1553–55, completed 1563. Paris, Bibliothèque nationale de France, MS Mex. 385, fol. 16 r.Figure 44 long description.

Photo © Bibliothèque nationale de France.
Figure 44

Figure 45 Bernardino de Sahagún and collaborators, Historia Universal de las cosas de la Nueva España, late sixteenth century. Madrid, Real Academia de la Historia, MS 9/5524, fols. 73 v and 77 r.

Photo courtesy Madrid, Real Academia de la Historia.
Figure 45

Figure 46 Diego Durán, Historia de las Indias de Nueva España e islas de la tierra firme, 1579. Madrid, Biblioteca Nacional de España, MS Vitr. 26.11, fol. 213 v.Figure 46 long description.

Photo courtesy Biblioteca Nacional de España.
Figure 46

Figure 47 Attributed to Francisco Gualpuyoguacal, illustrator, and Juan González, author, Codex Mendoza, early 1540s. Oxford, Bodleian Library, MS Arch. Selden. A. 1, fol. 64 r.Figure 47 long description.

Photo © Bodleian Libraries, University of Oxford.
Figure 47

Figure 48 Diego Muñoz Camargo, Historia de Tlaxcala, 1558. Glasgow, University of Glasgow Library, Sp. Coll. MS Hunter 242 (U.3.15), fol. 264 r.Figure 48 long description.

Photo courtesy of University of Glasgow Archives & Special Collections.
Figure 48

Figure 49 Heraldic standards of Date Masamune, in O-umajirushi, 1639–44, scroll 1. Tokyo, National Diet Library.Figure 49 long description.

Photo courtesy of the National Diet Library.
Figure 49

Figure 50 Battle of Osaka (detail), mid-seventeenth century. Osaka, Osaka Castle Museum.

Photo in the public domain.

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