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Introduction

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  20 February 2026

Margaret M. Andrews
Affiliation:
Harvard University, Massachusetts

Summary

On January 9, 2013, Cesare Esposito was not happy. The sixty-five-year-old artist, a longtime resident of Rome’s Monti district, had just been evicted from his residence. The heart of Monti essentially covers Rome’s eastern hills (Quirinal, Viminal, Cispian, Esquiline, and Oppian) and the valleys formed between them as the landscape stretches downhill and westward toward the ancient Forum (Plate 0.1; Map 0.1). Esposito’s family had lived here for generations, and he had thrived in the neighborhood that had been one of the areas of Rome most associated with artists and artisans of all sorts for centuries. But Esposito’s connection to Monti has meaning beyond his family history there. He is the artist in charge of one of the highest-profile ceremonies in Monti’s annual calendar: the celebration of the Miracle of Madonna della Neve at the papal basilica of S. Maria Maggiore, which looms over the central part of Monti from the top of the Cispian hill. Every year on August 4, the ceremony recalled the miraculous snowfall that occurred on that same date in 352 CE, when a rich patrician was directed by the Virgin Mary in his dream to construct a basilica where fresh snow fell that morning. The bishop Liberius, upon being informed of this dream, said that he had had the same one, so he marked out a floor plan for the basilica on the ground of the Cispian where snow – somehow in the heat of the late summer – had indeed fallen. Esposito directs the annual reenactment of this snowfall, which entails blasting artificial snowflakes from the roof of the basilica, and he has devoted his artistic efforts from time to time to numerous other church or civic celebrations across the city for decades. But now, Esposito said, he sleeps in the archaeological ruins of the ancient imperial fora that enclosed the lowest part of Monti, forced to look upon Monti and his former residence from the street. Esposito had been fighting the city to keep his apartment and studio since 2006, but he had now suffered the final defeat. Only by selling all of his belongings could he afford to get it back.

Information

Figure 0

Map 0.1. The modern neighborhood of Monti, corresponding to the ancient Subura valley.

Credits: Author.
Figure 1

Map 0.2. The terrain and primary thoroughfares of the Subura.

Credits: Author.
Figure 2

0.1. Fragments of the Severan FUR depicting the area of the Subura valley.

Credits: Author.
Figure 3

0.2. Map of the Subura showing all Roman and Christian monuments of feminine virtue dating to the period of study.

Credits: Author.

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  • Introduction
  • Margaret M. Andrews, Harvard University, Massachusetts
  • Book: The Subura of Rome
  • Online publication: 20 February 2026
  • Chapter DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/9781009745802.002
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  • Introduction
  • Margaret M. Andrews, Harvard University, Massachusetts
  • Book: The Subura of Rome
  • Online publication: 20 February 2026
  • Chapter DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/9781009745802.002
Available formats
×

Save book to Google Drive

To save content items to your account, please confirm that you agree to abide by our usage policies. If this is the first time you use this feature, you will be asked to authorise Cambridge Core to connect with your account. Find out more about saving content to Google Drive.

  • Introduction
  • Margaret M. Andrews, Harvard University, Massachusetts
  • Book: The Subura of Rome
  • Online publication: 20 February 2026
  • Chapter DOI: https://doi.org/10.1017/9781009745802.002
Available formats
×