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The “Poetic Chaos” of Gardens and Genres in Colonial Tbilisi

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  18 September 2023

Paul Manning*
Affiliation:
Department of Anthropology, Trent University, Peterborough, Ontario, Canada
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Extract

One summer afternoon in Tbilisi, my friends Elizbari and Malkhazi, both native Tbilisians, and I bought some beer from a local store near Malkhazi's home in the hillside residential Tbilisi neighborhood of K'rts’anisi. For various reasons I can no longer recall, it would not do for us to drink in his home, so we randomly chose a deserted spot nearby: a patch of gravel next to a decrepit building with a large fallen tree, which afforded us a place to sit. Malkhazi surveyed our abject drinking spot, raised his beer in a heroic pose, and proclaimed: “Ortach'alis baghshi mnakhe, vina var!” (In the gardens of Ortachala see me, who I am!).1 We laughed at the absurd poetic reference. It was a famous line from a Persian-style Georgian poem by the noble romantic poet Grigol Orbeliani. It was a mukhambazi, a genre of poetry emblematic of “Old Tbilisi” city poetry associated with a nostalgic Georgian mythology of the nineteenth-century colonial city, centering on the island gardens of Ortachala, the site of drunken feasting of typical Tbilisian street peddlers called kintos (Georgian k'int’o). The stanza goes as such:

      In the gardens of Ortachala see me, who I am,
      In a happy-go-lucky feast see me, who I am!
      A toastmaster with a drinking bowl, see me, who I am!
      Well in a fistfight see me, who I am!
      Then you will fall in love with me, say, “You are precious!”

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This is an Open Access article, distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike licence (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0), which permits non-commercial re-use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the same Creative Commons licence is used to distribute the re-used or adapted article and the original article is properly cited. The written permission of Cambridge University Press must be obtained prior to any commercial use.
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Copyright © The Author(s), 2023. Published by Cambridge University Press
Figure 0

Figure 1. The public gardens of Tbilisi in 1867: (top) the theatrical gardens of the Kolonia district on the left bank along Mikhailovsky Boulevard; (middle) the central Qabakhi or Alexander Garden on Golovinsky Boulevard on the right bank; and (bottom) the island garden of Ortachala (Krtsanisi is to the left). 1867 Map, “Tiflis with surroundings,” no publisher information.

Figure 1

Figure 2. Old Tbilisi: In Alexander Garden. Oscar Schmerling, 1928; postcard, property of author.

Figure 2

Figure 3. Old Tbilisi: A [garden] feast. Oscar Schmerling 1928; postcard, property of author.

Figure 3

Figure 4. Oscar Schmerling, “A feast of some drunken lads, a ‘Mukhambazi Latiauri’ of the so-called Feuilletonists,” Tsnobis Purtseli Suratebiani Damat'eba 24 (1902): 4.

Figure 4

Figure 5. 1878 map detail showing the location of the Engineer's Garden in relation to the adjacent Alexander Garden and the gardens of the Kolonia district across the river. 1878 “Map Of Tiflis,” no publication information.