1. Introduction
Within the circular economy framework, repair exists in close proximity to consumers and it’s the preferred option to adopt (after reuse or share) due to high material retention and cost saving (Reference MacArthurMacArthur, 2022). A substantial body of literature has examined the enablers and barriers towards repair behavior of consumers and offering valuable insights into why individuals choose or avoid repair services (Reference TerzioğluTerzioğlu, 2021). Consumer repair behavior studies for fashion items have also been analyzed on the basis of gender and age (Reference Laitala and KleppLaitala & Klepp, 2018) & (Reference McQueen, McNeill, Huang and PotdarMcQueen et al., 2022). Research by Reference McNeill, Hamlin, McQueen, Degenstein, Garrett, Dunn and WakesMcNeill et al. (2020), indicate that fashion sensitive consumers dispose garments more rapidly, however, these same consumers are motivated to repair those items that support their fashion identity.
In terms of repair service adoption, it is highly contextual. For example, getting repair through professional services is not widely adopted in Finland as many people have knowledge to repair and its costly (Reference Karell and NiinimäkiKarell & Niinimäki, 2025). On contrary, it differs from Belgium where people prefer to ask for repair from their family or friends and then repair experts (Reference Das, Ahsan, Van Rooy, Du Bois and MoonsDas et al., 2025). The level of trust and perception of quality of repair services is expected to be better with skill professionals in the sector (Reference Diddi and YanDiddi & Yan, 2019). Reference Fachbach, Lechner and ReimannFachbach et al. (2022), mentioned that word-of-mouth-communication through experts and the closer social network have a decisive influence on repair behavior of consumers. They adopt the repair service if they are being offered to participate in repair activities. This leads to the trust in the repair service providers (Reference Fachbach, Lechner and ReimannFachbach et al., 2022). The study by Reference Das, Ahsan, Van Rooy, Du Bois and MoonsDas et al. (2025), shows that consumers have high respect for the craftsmanship of repairers but it rarely translates into repair behavior, while they trust local repair experts as compared to brands who are adopting repair initiatives as circular business models.
Limited research has focused on the perspective of repair service providers, for example, Reference Güsser-Fachbach, Lechner, Ramos and ReimannGüsser-Fachbach, et al. (2023a), mentions repair service convenience from perspective of consumers as well as repair companies. The ethnographic study by Reference Godfrey, Price and LuschGodfrey et al. (2022), highlight that repair involves an interaction between both consumers and repair service providers and they play an active and equal role in establishing and aligning the repair system. Though, limited research has been done to understand the perspective of service providers. Therefore, this gap opens a compelling reason to explore the holistic ecosystem around repair and its dynamics from the repair service providers perspective, this study is guided by three research questions (RQs).
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RQ1: What are the challenges faced by repair service providers?
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RQ2: How do repair service providers perceive their own role in shaping the transition of fashion sector towards CE?
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RQ3: How can repair services be leveraged as entry point to facilitate the circular fashion transition?
2. Research design
Given the exploratory nature of the research, a qualitative research design was adopted to explore the perspective of repair service providers. The participants were selected from the same project in which the initial phase of the study was conducted by Reference Das, Ahsan, Van Rooy, Du Bois and MoonsDas et al. (2025), ensuring continuity and coherence with previously gathered data. Therefore, only three semi structured interviews were conducted from the project. One respondent leading repair initiative in the company that deals with sportswear, referred as brand led repair initiative (B1) and two independent repair experts operating their own business, referred as local repair experts (E1 & E2), all specializing in the repair of fashion items such as clothing, shoes, and bags. All interviews were audio recorded with informed consent of the participants and had a duration of approximately 50–60 minutes. The interview guide included questions to answer three RQs. The interviews were transcribed and coded in NVivo. Thematic analysis was done to answer all RQs and for RQ3, leverage points by Donnella Meadows, to enable a systems design approach for repair as a strategic entry point for transformative change. Thematic analysis was used as method to identify patterns and insights across the interview data as it is a flexible qualitative analysis method to capture the diversity in perspectives among participants (Reference Nowell, Norris, White and MoulesNowell et al., 2017). Transcripts were systematically coded around key dimensions. These codes (referred as subthemes) were grouped together to create themes as shown in Figure 1.
Coding matrix for themes and subthemes
For RQ3 the responses of interviewees are analyzed based on Donella Meadows’ framework on leverage points. Using this system thinking approach helps to identify the strategic places within complex systems where targeted interventions can lead to transformative change. As per her framework twelve leverage points exists, ranked from shallow to deep, based on their potential to influence systemic behavior. For example, adjusting parameters or material flows ranks at lower order intervention that produce incremental yet temporary effects. In contrast, deeper leverage points, such as altering system goals, rules, or paradigms, can reshape the entire system, yielding desired transition. It is also acknowledged that deeper leverage points hold greater power to shift entrenched patterns and unlock regenerative potential are therefore harder to achieve and vice versa (Reference MeadowsMeadows, 1999).
3. Results
3.1. Challenges (RQ1)
3.1.1. Willingness to pay & labor cost
The cost has been identified as primary challenge by interviewees. The percentage of consumers willing to pay for repair services remains low, with motivations rooted in sentimental value or a commitment to sustainability.
E1: “80% of the people look at cost and then there 2%-3% who look at their relationship with the product […] because sentiments cannot be quantified […] and remaining 10-20% are into sustainability, they don’t care about costs”.
In cases where garments or accessories hold significant sentimental value, consumers have demonstrated a willingness to pay up to ten times the typical repair cost. Interviewees highlighted that as in Belgium the labor costs are high with cost of setting up a repair facility which can inflate the price of even minor repair and as a result, consumers who have purchased inexpensive clothes or shoes often choose to replace rather than paying high cost of repair.
E2: “I think the cost of labor is still high in Belgium which is €60/hour […] and every piece is unique, and repairer has to match as original as possible […] and it’s narrowed down to the material costs and also the cost of investment of machinery”.
E1: “A good example is the replacement of a zipper […] for a product which takes 30 to 45 minutes in 45 euros. So, for a jacket of €50, no way customer go to repair the zipper […] they just buy a new one.”
3.1.2. Logistical constraints
Interviewees highlighted the growing demand for repair services depends heavily on the availability of spare parts. Interestingly, while some companies have clear knowledge of their suppliers and can source parts easily, others lack this visibility entirely.
B1: “Level of repairability of products has increased enormously, so that means there’s a lot more spare parts needs to be available. It just makes the supply chain, more complex since ever, and of course operationally […] we had to invest all in that as well”.
At the current pace of repair structure, the logistics remain as major challenge. Each repairable item follows a logistics pathway which still requires optimization to ensure quick return of repaired products to consumer. As for now, it’s difficult for many companies to manage and therefore some prefer to outsource these services or some build in house expertise. It is also explained that the long waiting time is usually beyond repair companies control and inventory management of diverse spare parts can also be challenging (Reference Güsser-Fachbach, Lechner and ReimannGüsser-Fachbach, et al., 2023b).
E1: “For a repair which might only take 5 minutes. But the whole logistics process and all the administration around it is the cost of time”
3.1.3. Readiness level
The current economic model has long-standing path dependency, leaving little room for repair in fashion industry. However, the encouraging shift is making companies realize that they cannot operate in this manner open-endedly. Moreover, interviewees informed that employees within companies are increasingly aware, and many are ready to move on if their organizations resist progress. In response to the rapidly changing legislative landscape, companies are closely monitoring new policies and government directives, adapting their strategies accordingly. This often slows down adoption, revealing that readiness to navigate regulatory shifts remains a challenge.
B1: “And there’s a lot of legislation that’s already in place and […], and, we have to adapt, change our operational organization according to those legislations.”
E1: “If you’re in that business for 20 to 25 years, the easiest thing you can do is to continue to do what you’re doing. And now you have to change, so the whole thing from my perspective depends on individuals”.
3.1.4. Declining skills
There is an increasing concern that rise of fast fashion has led to decline in repairing skills which was once being taught in schools. Few educational institutions, in Belgium offer such training, despite its potential value. Additionally, social stigma around professions like cobbler continues to undermine this skill.
E1: “If we talk especially about fashion […] the capabilities of doing repairs also decreased […] It’s not that long ago that people knew it from schools but not anymore.”
E2: “Due to the fast fashion we’ve lost all the skills and all the knowledge there are almost no educations to become a cobbler […] I think we have 300 Cobblers left in Belgium and they are descending and descending”.
3.1.5. Quality differentiation
According to interviewees, poor clothing quality and increasing volumes are expected to create major challenges in the coming years, especially as new legislation will require centralized systems for managing repairs and returns. Meanwhile, the market for high-end luxury bags continues to grow unlike shoes, which remain less popular due to their lower cost and perceived disposability.
E1: “Quality is somehow on average is going down and we are concerned about the quality of the garments”
E2: “I’ve specialized over the years also in the restoration of high-end bags brands, that’s also there is a lot more requests coming […]. That’s why I focused on the high-end part of the fashion industry”.
3.2. Role in transition (RQ2)
3.2.1. Skill preservation and transfer
The respondents mentioned their role in advancing the circular fashion transition by not only preserving the increasingly neglected skill of garment repairs but also providing the opportunities to transfer the skills to those who are willing to learn. It was further noted that repair is a distinctive skill that resists standardization or mastery within a fixed timeframe, as each item presents unique challenges that may demand additional techniques or specialized knowledge during the repair process.
E1: “You see a growing interest (in repair skills) now in fashion, companies start looking […] to get input from the people who are doing the repairs.”
E2: “it [repair skills] takes time also because it’s a craft […] and every piece is kind of unique. So, you learn through every piece”
Beyond their own operations, interviewees mentioned that they are actively collaborating with fashion companies to transfer repair skills to their employees and assist in establishing in-house repair services for products such as garments and footwear. Notably, some logistics companies have shown their interests in terms of getting repair training for their personnel. This indicates recognition and need of repair expertise in the transition of fashion industry.
E2: “I offer […] consultancy to the brands, where I do the repairs and then I train their people […] and set up the repair services and the possible repairs. Also, I’ve been contacted by logistic brands, to train their staff on repairs’
3.2.2. Empowerment and agency
Through the responses of interviewees, it has been mentioned that having repair skill is linked to enhanced self-confidence and a strengthened sense of ownership. When individuals repair items themselves, they often experience a sense of personal satisfaction, while also developing a deeper connection to and responsibility for the restored object.
E1: “It’s a lot of confidence when you repair something”.
E2: I’ve noticed with the workshops I’m giving to people that they get the skills and the confidence to just maintain their clothes by themselves again.
3.2.3. Social cohesion
Interviewees have expressed their observation where they indicated a growing interest among people in activities that allow them to reconnect with skills that were once practiced by older generations. This appreciation has fostered a sense of social cohesion as people from diverse background come together wither to acquire skills or to observe the process. Mainly, their motivation often stems from a desire to gain deeper insights into the functionality and design of products as this hand-on opportunity helps them to improve their technical knowledge as well.
E1: ‘I’m working with repair cafes and […] I see more engineers popping up where they learn about the product […] by doing the repairs’
Another respondent informed that repair initiatives within company have also cultivated a sense of pride and positive engagement among employees, enhancing their belonginess with the company. It has improved the job satisfaction as employees recognizes their meaningful role, they play in advancing sustainable fashion.
3.2.4. Design optimization
Recent policy changes are increasing the environmental taxes. This will raise clothing prices due to higher quality and transparency. At the same time, it is expected that output volumes will be reduced. In this context, repair practices have potential to offer practical means to manage existing textile waste and shifting the people towards more repairs.
E1: “So, governments are putting taxes on it […] when material costs will be higher, people will shift to repairs more quickly’.
Repair initiatives have highlighted the importance of designing products with both extended use and end-of-life considerations in mind. This has prompt brands to collaborate closely with design teams to develop durable and sustainable products.
B1: “when we invest in circular businesses, it has an impact on the design expectation of the products. So, for repairs it’s better to design modular products that are easier to repair. It is different for rental products which needs to be more sturdy and less fragile”.
3.2.5. Consumer centric value creation
For repair service provider, the consumer experience is the utmost priority. Once the product enters repair system it becomes critical to have a well-informed infrastructure capable of sourcing the necessary components from appropriate suppliers. This requires a seamless integration between the front-end (focusing on customer interaction) and the back end (focusing on technical repair) operations necessitating trained staff who can accurately assess repair types and assign tasks accordingly. Therefore, as a step towards circular fashion, the businesses are embracing more nuanced approach to customer experience.
E1: “Repair is very linked to the customer, […] keeping the contact with customer is quite important”
The localized, personalized services from individual repairers stand in stark contrast to the impersonal nature of mass production, offering consumers a more meaningful and value-driven experience (Reference Hielscher and Jaeger-ErbenHielscher & Jaeger-Erben, 2021).
3.2.6. Strategic positioning in transition
It was highlighted that for initiatives like repair services, within Europe, have a potential to become pioneer in this field. The European landscape facilities the collaboration and its strategic position make it standout as compared to other regions in world. his advantage is further amplified by the presence of highly skilled professionals who possess the necessary expertise and are eager to drive partnerships that can accelerate the growth and development of the repair industry.
Interviewees have also mentioned the importance of legislations such as Right to Repair; Waste Framework Directive and Eco-design which are supportive legislations and are facilitating in steering the fashion industry towards responsible production and consumption.
3.3. Repair as leverage point (RQ3)
Based on the analysis, six leverage points were identified that can be targeted with interventions to lead to optimize the act of repair.
3.3.1. Embedding repair educations
Embedding repair into fashion curricula as part of education, mainly at the design stage has been identified as critical intervention point within the broader transition to circular fashion. As one respondent stated
E1: “The fashion school today, is not educating about repair […] but we are enabling it now by teaching it within our operations”
Identification of this gap, if introduced as intervention then it aligns with Donella Meadows’ leverage point 4: the power to change and self-organization within a system. By embedding repairability into design education, the system will begin to reconfigure itself, enabling new roles and competencies. Furthermore, the respondent emphasized the current disconnect between designers and repair practitioners.
E1: “Companies […] are not linked to designers yet who can work on their products, and it will take time. But we will get there, and regulation will really facilitate”
This underscores the need for structural arrangement between design and repair to foster repair literacy at the design phase and to create new actors, relationships, and norms within the fashion system.
3.3.2. Adoption by scale
To accelerate repair in fashion sector, leveraging the capacity of large brands to adopt repair services is highlighted as an intervention point. According to respondents
E2: “I think more and more brands will see the need for it and set up a repair service in house or externally […] it will trickle down to the smaller businesses”.
E1: “Businesses with high volume, are at advantage to think repair in profitable models”
This represents the 7th leverage point by Donnella Meadows: reinforcing feedback loop. As companies with larger volumes of repairable clothing will develop efficient and profitable system due to economies of scale. This suggests that once repair becomes embedded in mainstream business models, it will cascade across the smaller businesses. This further indicates that scaling will accelerates the system to be efficient. As these models reinforce themselves it will create a feedback loop of drawing more adoption, investment, and eventually innovation.
3.3.3. Centralized repair network
Respondents suggested a key intervention to strengthen the repair system is through creation of centralized repair network that aims to bring skilled practitioners, brands, and logistical infrastructure together in an organized way.
E2: We need a network which […] revives the craftsman ship of cobblers and seamstresses […] if there is more attention to it would enhance the possibility (to collaborate) and transfer the skills to new craftsman.
E1: “They (repairers) need a place to practice and in organized way. We need to firstly identify the right players (repair experts) provide them a safe zone”.
E1: “There is room for companies to get together brands and organize it as a group and then use one repair center […] like The United repair center in The Netherlands.
The concept of a shared repair hub can be associated with leverage point 4 (the power to change the structure and self-organization) by enabling new actors, relationships, and capabilities. With centralized repair centers, brands can collectively invest in infrastructure that reduces service delays, manages inventories efficiently, and ensures quality standards. Moreover, regulatory shifts will require companies to establish repair networks, therefore it is in favor of all service providers to self-organize around shared goals and enable the repair sector to embed effectively within the circular economy.
3.3.4. Enabling policy landscape
Another critical intervention identified is enforcement of comprehensive policy frameworks i.e. fifth leverage point changing the rules of the system which governs how actors behave, what is incentivized, and what is permissible. For example, one respondent stated.
E2: “I only believe in customer education once regulations are there”
Regulatory mechanisms such as Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) and Right to Repair legislation are seen as foundational in creating the conditions for repair to scale. Moreover, the interviewee highlighted the macroeconomic and geopolitical dimensions of this shift, noting that “transitioning from a product to a service model will be important for companies,” particularly in the context of rising labor costs and material constraints in Europe. The observation that
“Totally my personal opinion that the current political landscape regarding increased taxes is in line with the long-term vision of the circular economy”.
This suggests that power of policy to bring ultimate change and create the space and acceptance of new repair in fashion industry even in consumers as customers being aware, is not enough to bring change.
3.3.5. Consumer engagement
An effective intervention to promote repair and sustainable consumption in the fashion sector involves reshaping the rules and incentives that govern consumer behavior linking to the fifth leverage point which includes altering formal policies, incentive mechanisms, and information structures that shape decision-making
“We are working on making the impact of a product visible for customers so that they can decide […] like price, CO 2 impact, product lifespan etc.”
It is suggested to present this information similar to the food industry’s A–D nutrition labels that simplify complexity and help consumers make informed choices about their fashion item purchase. Similarly, interviewees emphasized on the importance of visibility of repair stating that “for quality repair it is important to keep in contact with your customer”
Beyond information sharing, financial incentives are the influential interventions as suggested by one respondent about “eco cheque” system (a tax-free wage), as an example in Belgium. It was suggested that by allowing the use of eco cheques to repair services, consumers can be nudged effectively toward more sustainable practices, while simultaneously supporting local repair economies.
3.3.6. Expanding employment flexibility
To support the repair services to gain maturity, another strategic intervention suggested by respondents was enabling flexible employment models. This can be also linked as 10th leverage point negative feedback loop (stabilizing) in the face current high costs of repair services.
E2: “In Belgium there are flexi jobs, but you can’t have it as a cobbler, if we can work on that [.] there is a chance to become cobbler or repairer with the option of flexi jobs”
By introducing flexible employment schemes to the repair sector, the system can adapt to rising demand and pricing pressures as well. Stabilizing the labor supply through adaptive employment policies can help repair businesses become economically resilient, socially inclusive, and operationally sustainable.
This section concludes with Figure 2, a schematic representation adapted from the framework of leverage points, which positions the proposed interventions to illustrate repair services as an entry point for facilitating the transition toward circular fashion.
Adapted from leverage points by Donnella Meadows (source: author)
3.4. Discussion
Previous studies have identified barriers regarding consumer behavior in adopting repair services including cost, convenience and trust on service providers (Reference Karell and NiinimäkiKarell & Niinimäki, 2025; Reference TerzioğluTerzioğlu, 2021). Consumers often perceive independent repair providers as more trustworthy than brand-led services, thereby reinforcing the gap between intention and actual behavior (Reference Das, Ahsan, Van Rooy, Du Bois and MoonsDas et al., 2025). It is important to understand that convergence of consumer’s perception to trust independent repair experts as compared to brands is linked to their prior knowledge, experience and values. This does not reflect solely on objective differences in service quality but rather the interpretive frames through which repair is being experienced by consumers as a service. This is aligned with the study by Reference De Dreu and GelfandDe Dreu and Gelfand (2008), where it is explained that perceptual conflict often stems not from objective contradictions, but from how differences are interpreted. Building on this insight, the present study, (despite of limited no. of respondents), extends the discussion by examining incorporating the perspective of repair service providers in fashion sector.
Firstly, the challenges voiced by repair service providers in Q1 shows that independent service providers face challenges of high costs, and declining skills, while brands struggle with logistical complexity, their readiness and quality differentiation. From holistic perspective, these challenges are not just operational issues, but signals towards existing linear system that undervalues repair. This reflects the symptoms of deeper systemic misalignment where repair services are expected to function within a system which is designed for disposability (Reference Parajuly, Green, Richter, Johnson, Rückschloss, Peeters, Kuehr and FitzpatrickParajuly et al., 2024), (Reference Niinimäki and DurraniNiinimäki & Durrani, 2020). Secondly, the results of Q2 shows that independent repairers contribute craftsmanship skills and transfer, consumer-centric approaches, and social cohesion, whereas brands can provide infrastructure, institutional legitimacy, and the capacity to scale. This helps in understanding the holistic picture by complementing the positionalities of these actors in the path towards circular transition of this sector. Lastly, in Q3, the interventions proposed by repair service providers were further analyzed through the lens of leverage framework . The analysis of results reveals a distribution from shallow adjustments to deep structural shifts. As illustrated in Figure 2, most of these interventions are clustered around the middle range (feedback and design) of the twelve leverage points. Since they occupy an intermediate zone which signifies that these leverage interventions are both achievable yet impactful and offer a balance between practicality and transformative potential. For example, shallow levers such as employment flexibility can generate initial momentum, mid-level levers such as scaling adoption can normalize repair practices. These are useful for nudging behavior and creating entry points, yet they risk being absorbed by the existing linear system if not reinforced by deeper change. Furthermore, deep levers such as embedding repair education into design curricula and centralized repair hubs can reshape the landscape and paradigm-level shifts, where repair can be reframed not as a niche service but as a public good and systemic norm . However, it is important to understand that while these interventions hold transformative potential, but they cannot drive transition in isolation as they require a consistent institutional support.
To summarize, this research highlights that by identifying the perceptual conflict, if examined holistically can expose deep rooted challenges while simultaneously paving the path towards integrative solutions. This research adds value to the existing literature on consumer perception by presenting the perspective of repair service providers and revealing potential systemic leverage points that can facilitate clearer pathways for designers to integrate repairability during material and design choices. Furthermore, repair skills and repair assessment criteria within curricula must be introduced by design educators and design researchers to strengthen the repair ecosystems.
The limited number of respondents and context-specific nature of this research poses as main limitation of this study. Furthermore, it reflects culture and market conditions of Belgium which may not be generalizable across different geographies or consumer segments. Therefore, future research can be done across diverse cultural contexts. This work could also be extended by comparing repair service providers in other sectors where the cost of purchasing a new item is lower than the cost of repair. Such comparative studies will further validate the design interventions and their evolution as leverage points over time particular when circular initiatives such as repair services etc. gain traction.
3.5. Conclusion
Within discourse of design for sustainability, this research positions the perspective of repair service providers in the fashion industry. They revealed the operational complexities and deeper systemic misalignments where repair services are expected to function within a system which is designed for disposability. Furthermore, the study explored the emergence of these service providers as active agents of change in shaping the industry with the activities such as transferring the skills, community building and policy advocacy. It shows their purpose driven and solution orientated outlook which aligns with design for sustainability. Lastly, the interventions suggested by repair service providers were analyzed through Donella Meadow’s leverage points framework highlighting the varied systemic depths. The interventions range from shallow depths such as incentives and feedback loops to deep levels such as development of centralized repair center or embedding repair education into design curricula.
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