from Part II - Artefacts and Evidence
Published online by Cambridge University Press: 04 July 2025
This chapter explores dress and furnishing textiles in Late Antiquity, examining their materials, production techniques and cultural significance in both everyday and elite settings. It argues that textile production was a major sector of the late Roman economy, with fabrics sourced from across the empire and beyond, including silk from the East and high-quality linen from Egypt. This study also investigates how political and social changes influenced fashion, with garments reflecting shifts in identity, status and religious affiliation. A major challenge in studying textiles from this period is the fragmentary nature of surviving garments and the difficulty of matching literary descriptions to actual finds, a concern the chapter addresses in detail. A significant focus is placed on the emergence of Christian liturgical dress, tracing how bishops and clergy gradually adopted distinct garments, such as the dalmatica and pallium, to signal their ecclesiastical roles. The discussion concludes with an examination of furnishing textiles, including wall hangings and upholstery, which played a crucial role in interior decoration. By integrating diverse sources, the chapter demonstrates that textiles were not only practical necessities but also important cultural and economic markers in Late Antiquity.
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