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Published online by Cambridge University Press: 21 November 2020
Abstract
The temple complex of Muktinath is both the primary site of Shaligram veneration within Mustang as well as the endpoint of Shaligram pilgrimage. Though identified in Puranic texts as existing in Himalayan Nepal and mentioned by a series of names, such as Muktikshetra and Śālagrāma, it is often unclear as to whether these passages refer to a place, a region, or an ideal. As a Buddhist complex, Muktinath is more commonly referred to as Chumig-Gyatsa (Hundred Waters). As such, Muktinath itself, much like Mustang generally, is not specifically identifiable through any one religious tradition and incorporates a variety of ritual practices, local and foreign customs, and belief systems – all of which are recapitulated in the Shaligram practices that follow.
Keywords: Muktinath, Shaligram, Salagrama, Purana, Chumig-Gyatsa
“The moment I have realized God sitting in the temple of every human body, the moment I stand in reverence before every human being and see God in him – that moment I am free from bondage, everything that binds vanishes, and I am free.”
A young Muktinath nun, who gave her name as Sister Pemba Dorje, had awoken very early in the morning to begin preparations for the darshan of Vishnu-Chenrezig. “Muktinath is a great example of a place of harmony,” she told me, still gathering together a few ritual implements. “Many people come here. Hindus and Buddhist from everywhere. They give rice and money and bring their children and elderly parents. Or they come with photos when people cannot come or who have died. I didn't come because I was Buddhist; I came because I very much like this way. I pray for all beings, for all suffering to stop. I pray for good health and good karma and I look after all the cultures in Nepal and Tibet and India and everywhere. That's why everyone comes to Muktinath. We are for everyone.” “And what about the Shaligrams?” I asked. “Oh, yes. Shaligram is also for everyone. Shaligram is a part of Muktinath and Muktinath is for the world.”
Textual evidence of Hindu influences in Mustang is extremely limited, and many accounts of practices labeled as either Hindu or Buddhist have drawn on historical texts selectively while often ignoring evidence that might contradict their contentions.
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