Skip to main content
×
Home
    • Aa
    • Aa
  • Get access
    Check if you have access via personal or institutional login
  • Cited by 182
  • Cited by
    This article has been cited by the following publications. This list is generated based on data provided by CrossRef.

    Alsina, José M. Padilla, Enrique M. and Cáceres, Iván 2016. Sediment transport and beach profile evolution induced by bi-chromatic wave groups with different group periods. Coastal Engineering, Vol. 114, p. 325.


    de Bakker, A. T. M. Tissier, M. F. S. and Ruessink, B. G. 2016. Beach steepness effects on nonlinear infragravity-wave interactions: A numerical study. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, Vol. 121, Issue. 1, p. 554.


    Herbers, T. H. C. and Janssen, T. T. 2016. Lagrangian Surface Wave Motion and Stokes Drift Fluctuations. Journal of Physical Oceanography, Vol. 46, Issue. 4, p. 1009.


    Mahmoudof, Seyed Masoud Badiei, Peyman Siadatmousavi, Seyed Mostafa and Chegini, Vahid 2016. Observing and estimating of intensive triad interaction occurrence in very shallow water. Continental Shelf Research, Vol. 122, p. 68.


    Ning, Dezhi Chen, Lifen Zhao, Ming and Teng, Bin 2016. Experimental and Numerical Investigation of the Hydrodynamic Characteristics of Submerged Breakwaters in Waves. Journal of Coastal Research, Vol. 320, p. 800.


    Orescanin, Mara M. Elgar, Steve and Raubenheimer, Britt 2016. Changes in bay circulation in an evolving multiple inlet system. Continental Shelf Research, Vol. 124, p. 13.


    Ruju, Andrea Conley, Daniel Masselink, Gerd and Puleo, Jack 2016. Sediment transport dynamics in the swash zone under large-scale laboratory conditions. Continental Shelf Research, Vol. 120, p. 1.


    Sheremet, Alex Davis, Justin R. Tian, Miao Hanson, Jeffrey L. and Hathaway, Kent K. 2016. TRIADS: A phase-resolving model for nonlinear shoaling of directional wave spectra. Ocean Modelling, Vol. 99, p. 60.


    Smit, P. B. and Janssen, T. T. 2016. The Evolution of Nonlinear Wave Statistics through a Variable Medium. Journal of Physical Oceanography, Vol. 46, Issue. 2, p. 621.


    Suanda, S.H. Perez, S. and Feddersen, F. 2016. Evaluation of a source-function wavemaker for generating random directionally spread waves in the sea-swell band. Coastal Engineering, Vol. 114, p. 220.


    Brodie, K. L. Raubenheimer, B. Elgar, Steve Slocum, R. K. and McNinch, J. E. 2015. Lidar and Pressure Measurements of Inner-Surfzone Waves and Setup. Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology, Vol. 32, Issue. 10, p. 1945.


    de Bakker, A. T. M. Herbers, T. H. C. Smit, P. B. Tissier, M. F. S. and Ruessink, B. G. 2015. Nonlinear Infragravity–Wave Interactions on a Gently Sloping Laboratory Beach. Journal of Physical Oceanography, Vol. 45, Issue. 2, p. 589.


    Diaz-Hernandez, Gabriel Mendez, Fernando J. Losada, Inigo J. Camus, Paula and Medina, Raul 2015. A nearshore long-term infragravity wave analysis for open harbours. Coastal Engineering, Vol. 97, p. 78.


    Eldeberky, Yasser 2015. Applicability of a Stochastic Model to Nonlinear Shoaling of Surface Waves. Coastal Engineering Journal, Vol. 57, Issue. 02, p. 1550002.


    Ren, Xiaozhong and Ma, Yuxiang 2015. Numerical Simulations for Nonlinear Waves Interaction with Multiple Perforated Quasi-Ellipse Caissons. Mathematical Problems in Engineering, Vol. 2015, p. 1.


    Ruessink, Gerben and Ranasinghe, Roshanka 2015. Coastal Environments and Global Change.


    Smit, P.B. Janssen, T.T. and Herbers, T.H.C. 2015. Stochastic modeling of inhomogeneous ocean waves. Ocean Modelling, Vol. 96, p. 26.


    Bruder, Brittany Bomminayuni, Sandeep Haas, Kevin and Stoesser, Thorsten 2014. Modeling tidal distortion in the Ogeechee Estuary. Ocean Modelling, Vol. 82, p. 60.


    Davis, Justin Sheremet, Alex Tian, Miao and Saxena, Saurabh 2014. A Numerical Implementation of a Nonlinear Mild Slope Model for Shoaling Directional Waves. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, Vol. 2, Issue. 1, p. 140.


    de Bakker, A.T.M. Tissier, M.F.S. and Ruessink, B.G. 2014. Shoreline dissipation of infragravity waves. Continental Shelf Research, Vol. 72, p. 73.


    ×
  • Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Volume 161
  • December 1985, pp. 425-448

Observations of bispectra of shoaling surface gravity waves

  • Steve Elgar (a1) (a2) and R. T. Guza (a1)
  • DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/S0022112085003007
  • Published online: 01 April 2006
Abstract

Aspects of the nonlinear dynamics of waves shoaling between 9 and 1 m water depths are elucidated via the bispectrum. Bispectral-signal levels are generally high, indicating significant nonlinear coupling. In 9 m depth, the biphases of interactions involving frequencies at, and higher than, the peak of the energy spectra are suggestive of Stokes-like nonlinearities (Hasselman, Munk & MacDonald 1963). Further shoaling gradually modifies these biphases to values consistent with a wave profile that is pitched shoreward, relative to a vertical axis. Bicoherence and biphase observations with a double-peaked (swell and wind-wave) power spectrum provide evidence for excitation of modes at intermediate frequencies via difference interactions, as well as the sum interactions responsible for harmonic growth. Shoreward-propagating low-frequency (surf-beat) energy is shown to have statistically significant coupling to higher-frequency modes within the power-spectral peak. In 18 m depth, the biphase of these interactions is close to 180°, a value consistent with the classical concept of bound long waves. In shallower water, however, substantial biphase evolution occurs, and there is no longer a unique phase relationship between surf beat and the envelope of high-frequency waves. The contributions to sea-surface-elevation skewness and asymmetry (with respect to a vertical axis) from interactions among various wave triads are given by the real and imaginary parts of the bispectrum, respectively. In very shallow water, coupling between surf beat and higher-frequency waves results in a skewness with sign opposite to, and about 40% of the magnitude of, the skewness resulting from interactions between the power-spectral-peak frequency and higher frequencies.

Copyright
Recommend this journal

Email your librarian or administrator to recommend adding this journal to your organisation's collection.

Journal of Fluid Mechanics
  • ISSN: 0022-1120
  • EISSN: 1469-7645
  • URL: /core/journals/journal-of-fluid-mechanics
Please enter your name
Please enter a valid email address
Who would you like to send this to? *
×
MathJax