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Turbulence-induced anti-Stokes flow: experiments and theory

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  12 February 2026

Simen Å. Ellingsen*
Affiliation:
Department of Energy and Process Engineering, Norwegian University of Science and Technology , 7491 Trondheim, Norway
Olav Rømcke
Affiliation:
Department of Energy and Process Engineering, Norwegian University of Science and Technology , 7491 Trondheim, Norway
Benjamin K. Smeltzer
Affiliation:
Department of Energy and Process Engineering, Norwegian University of Science and Technology , 7491 Trondheim, Norway Department of Ships and Ocean Structures, SINTEF Ocean, 7052 Trondheim, Norway
Miguel A.C. Teixeira
Affiliation:
CEFT – Transport Phenomena Research Center, Faculty of Engineering, University of Porto, 4200-465 Porto, Portugal ALiCE – Associate Laboratory in Chemical Engineering, Faculty of Engineering, University of Porto, 4200-465 Porto, Portugal
Ton S. van den Bremer
Affiliation:
Department of Civil Engineering and Geosciences, TU Delft, 2628 CN Delft, The Netherlands
Kristoffer S. Moen
Affiliation:
Department of Energy and Process Engineering, Norwegian University of Science and Technology , 7491 Trondheim, Norway
R. Jason Hearst
Affiliation:
Department of Energy and Process Engineering, Norwegian University of Science and Technology , 7491 Trondheim, Norway
*
Corresponding author: Simen Å. Ellingsen, simen.a.ellingsen@ntnu.no

Abstract

We report experimental evidence of an Eulerian-mean flow, $\overline {u}(z)$, created by the interaction of surface waves and tailored ambient sub-surface turbulence, which partly cancels the Stokes drift, $u_s(z)$, and present supporting theory. Water-side turbulent velocity fields and Eulerian-mean flows were measured with particle image velocimetry before vs after the passage of a wave group, and with vs without the presence of regular waves. We compare different wavelengths, steepnesses and turbulent intensities. In all cases, a significant change in the Eulerian-mean current is observed, strongly focused near the surface, where it opposes the Stokes drift. The observations support the picture that, when waves encounter ambient sub-surface turbulence, the flow undergoes a transition during which Eulerian-mean momentum is redistributed vertically (without changing the depth-integrated mass transport) until a new equilibrium state is reached, wherein the near-surface ratio between $|{\rm d}\overline {u}/{\rm d}z|$ and $|{\rm d}u_s/{\rm d} z|$ approximately equals the ratio between the streamwise and vertical Reynolds normal stresses. This accords with a simple statistical theory derived here and holds regardless of the absolute turbulence level, whereas stronger turbulence means faster growth of the Eulerian-mean current. We present a model based on Rapid distortion theory which describes the generation of the Eulerian-mean flow as a consequence of the action of the Stokes drift on the background turbulence. Predictions are in qualitative, and reasonable quantitative, agreement with experiments on wave groups, where equilibrium has not yet been reached. Our results could have substantial consequences for predicting the transport of water-borne material in the oceans.

Information

Type
JFM Papers
Creative Commons
Creative Common License - CCCreative Common License - BY
This is an Open Access article, distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution licence (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/), which permits unrestricted re-use, distribution and reproduction, provided the original article is properly cited.
Copyright
© The Author(s), 2026. Published by Cambridge University Press
Figure 0

Figure 1. Experimental set-up: (a) side view of water channel with flow from left to right and field of view (FOV) indicated with a green rectangle, (b) top view of measurement region for the stereo particle image velocimetry (PIV) set-up in Experiment 1, including positions of wave probes (WPs) and laser-induced fluorescence (LIF) camera for surface detection; (c) longitudinal view of the planar PIV set-up in Experiments 2 and 3. Experiment 2 employed three stacked cameras as shown, whereas in Experiment 3, a single PIV camera was used.

Figure 1

Table 1. Overview of the three experiments. Here, $h$ is the mean water depth, $f_0$ is the wave frequency in the laboratory frame (wavemaker frequency), $f_{\textit{ac}}$ is the PIV acquisition frequency, $N_{\textit{ens}}$ is the number of repetitions per case, $T_{\textit{PIV}}$ is the duration of each acquisition interval and $L_{\textit{FOV}}$ is the distance the flow travels as a free stream upstream of the measurement field of view. $\dagger$: except case 1.C.2 where $ N_{\textit{ens}}=20$.

Figure 2

Table 2. Measured flow quantities: mean current $U_0$, carrier-wave number $k_0$, measured group temporal width in the lab frame $\tau$, root-mean-square turbulent velocity components (subscript ‘rms’), turbulent kinetic energy $e$ (calculated for Experiments 2 and 3 as discussed in main text), and streamwise–streamwise integral scale $L_x^x$. Steepness is given as $k_0a_{{p}}$ for Experiment 1 where $a_{{p}}$ is peak amplitude, and $ak_0$ in Experiments 2 and 3. Where several values of steepness are listed (cases 1.C and 2.A–3.B), these are referred to elsewhere as 1.C.1, 1.C.2, 2.A.1.1, 2.A.1.2, etc.

Figure 3

Table 3. Wave quantities derived from measured values in table 2. Here, $\lambda _0=2\pi /k_0$ is the carrier wavelength, $c(k_0)=\sqrt {g/k_0}$ is the carrier-wave phase velocity, $u_s(0)=(ak_0)^2c(k_0)$ is the Stokes drift velocity of the carrier wave at the surface, $T_0=\lambda _0/c(k_0)$ is the intrinsic wave period, $\tau _0$ the intrinsic group width from (3.2) and $u_{{rf}}$ is the Eulerian return flow from (4.2).

Figure 4

Figure 2. (a) Example surface elevation of a single wave group from Experiment 1 as a function of time $t$, measured by a wave probe at the measurement location. (b) Example from Experiment 1 of an ensemble-average group surface elevation amplitude envelope as a function of time normalised by the measured group temporal width $\tau$ for case 1.D (see (3.1)). The time intervals for SPIV measurement (1–3) are shown with vertical dashed lines. (c) Surface elevation measurements of one ensemble from Experiment 3 (cases 3.A and 3.B), which shows the onset of a regular-wave train. The red box indicates the interval used for analysis.

Figure 5

Figure 3. Change in Eulerian-mean current due to the passage of a wave group. The waves travelled in the positive $x$-direction, against the current. (a) An example of mean streamwise velocity depth profile before the arrival of a wave group, $U_1(z)$, and after the group has passed, $U_3(z)$, here for case 1.D; (b) mean streamwise velocity difference $\Delta U = U_3-U_1$ as a function of depth for the flow cases of Experiment 1. Error bars are omitted for visibility – see analysis in Appendix B; (c) the slope of $\Delta U(z)$ relative to the Stokes drift gradient (a prime denotes derivation with respect to $z$). Light smoothing (moving average with window size $8$ mm) was applied to the curves in panel (c) for better visibility.

Figure 6

Table 4. Derived wave quantities for use in RDT analysis. For cases 1.A–1.D, $T_{\textit{int}}=\sqrt {\pi }\tau _0$ is used with $\tau _0$ from (3.2), while for cases 2.A–3.B, $T_{\textit{int}}=L_{\textit{FOV}}/U_0$; $\beta _{{f}}(0)$ is found from (4.28) and (4.29) for groups and regular waves, respectively. Note that it is related to $T_{\textit{int}}$ via (4.33).

Figure 7

Figure 4. The wave-induced current $\Delta U$ under regular waves as a function of depth $k_0z$ for cases 2.A.1, 2.A.2, 2.B.1, 2.B.2, 3.A and 3.B in panels (a)–( f), respectively. For each case, different wave steepness values $ak_0$ are shown as indicated in the legend. The dashed lines are the theoretical Stokes drift profiles at the same location for each case, shown as $-u_s(z)$, that is, with opposite sign to the Stokes drift. The filled circles at $k_0z=-4$ and $0$ indicate the theoretical value of the Eulerian return flow, $u_{{rf}}$.

Figure 8

Figure 5. The wave-induced current under regular waves at the ‘reference’ depth $k_0z=-0.27$ as a function of wave steepness for cases 2.A–3.B as indicated in the legend. The dashed line is proportional to $(ak_0)^2$.

Figure 9

Figure 6. Test of (4.7) for cases 2.A to 3.B. The theoretical Stokes drift gradient ${\rm d} u_s/{\rm d} z$ (the derivative of (1.1)) is shown as dashed lines of corresponding colour. Separation of turbulence from waves was performed with POD, discussed in Appendix C.

Figure 10

Figure 7. Results from RDT: (a) profile of the normalised shear stress $\overline {u'w'}/q^2$ as a function of depth $k_0 z$; (b) profile of the normalised vertical derivative of the shear stress; (c) the normalised shear stress as a function of $\beta$ for $k_0 z=-0.4335$, the depth where $\overline {u'w'}/q^2$ attains its maximum magnitude. The dashed line is the 1:1 line, illustrating a linear dependence. (d) The RDT estimates of the anti-Stokes velocity profile after the passage of the wave groups, corresponding to figure 3(b).

Figure 11

Table 5. Active-grid protocols used.

Figure 12

Figure 8. (a,c,e) Convergence of mean velocities for the representative cases indicated in the legends, for increasing number of ensembles (a,e) or snapshots (c). (b,d, f) Velocity profiles for the same cases with error bars indicating the standard deviation from $2000$ bootstrapped profiles.

Figure 13

Figure 9. Wave-turbulence decomposition of the streamwise mean-subtracted velocity field $u_{{wt}}$ using POD. (a) Normalised mode energy $\lambda _n$ for a single ensemble of case 3.A.2. (b) Vertical slice of mode 1 beneath a wave peak ($x=x_{{p}}$). A factor $C$ is used for normalisation. (c) Power-spectral density of the temporal coefficients of mode 1 and the wave probe signal. (d) Spectrogram of the streamwise velocity at each depth coordinate; see (4.1). (e) Snapshots of the decomposed signal. From left to right in panels (d) and (e) $u_{{wt}}$, $\tilde {u}$ and $u'$. A Supplementary movie illustrating wave–current decomposition of our data is available at https://doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2026.11163.

Figure 14

Figure 10. Wave-turbulence decomposition of the streamwise velocity component using PhCA from measurements of case 3.A.2. (a) Sample of the wave phase field, $\varPhi (x, t)$, showing the phase variation across the spatial domain just beneath the wave trough. (b) Phase-resolved average velocity, $\tilde {u}_{\textit{ph}}(\varPhi , z)$. Panels (c) and (d) show the same as figures 9(d) and 9(e), respectively, for PhCA instead of POD.

Figure 15

Figure 11. Difference between triple-decomposed streamwise velocity fields for two different snapshots with approximately the same phase from case 3.A.2, streamwise velocity component (waves moving left to right, current moving right to left). Left panels: full mean-subtracted velocity field $u_{{wt}}$; middle panels: difference in wave velocities; right panels: difference in turbulent velocities. Top row: error due to PhCA amplitude error; bottom row: error due to PhCA phase error.

Figure 16

Figure 12. (a)–( f) Plots of Reynolds stresses $\overline {u'u'}$ (solid lines), $\overline {w'w'}$ (dash-dotted lines) and $\overline {u'w'}$ (dotted lines) for all cases. (g)–(l): The ratio $\overline {u'u'}/\overline {w'w'}$ for all cases. Colours distinguish each case as described in the legends of each panel.

Supplementary material: File

Ellingsen et al. supplementary movie 1

Qualitative demonstration of separation of the velocity field into a wave part and a turbulence part. The streamwise velocity is plotted for an instance of case 3.A.2 with velocities from most positive (lightest) to most negative (darkest).
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Supplementary material: File

Ellingsen et al. supplementary material 2

Ellingsen et al. supplementary material
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