Hostname: page-component-89b8bd64d-ktprf Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2026-05-08T15:03:47.908Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

Scattering of surface waves by ocean currents: the U2H map

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  24 February 2025

Han Wang
Affiliation:
School of Mathematics and Maxwell Institute for Mathematical Sciences, University of Edinburgh, EH9 3FD, UK
Ana B. Villas Bôas
Affiliation:
Department of Geophysics, Colorado School of Mines, Golden, CO 80401, USA
Jacques Vanneste*
Affiliation:
School of Mathematics and Maxwell Institute for Mathematical Sciences, University of Edinburgh, EH9 3FD, UK
William R. Young
Affiliation:
Scripps Institution of Oceanography, University of California at San Diego, La Jolla, CA 92093-0213, USA
*
Email address for correspondence: j.vanneste@ed.ac.uk

Abstract

Ocean turbulence at meso- and submesocales affects the propagation of surface waves through refraction and scattering, inducing spatial modulations in significant wave height (SWH). We develop a theoretical framework that relates these modulations to the current that induces them. We exploit the asymptotic smallness of the ratio of typical current speed to wave group speed to derive a linear map – the U2H map – between surface current velocity and SWH anomaly. The U2H map is a convolution, non-local in space, expressible as a product in Fourier space by a factor independent of the magnitude of the wavenumber vector. Analytic expressions of the U2H map show how the SWH responds differently to the vortical and divergent parts of the current, and how the anisotropy of the wave spectrum is key to large current-induced SWH anomalies. We implement the U2H map numerically and test its predictions against WAVEWATCH III numerical simulations for both idealised and realistic current configurations.

Information

Type
JFM Papers
Creative Commons
Creative Common License - CCCreative Common License - BY
This is an Open Access article, distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution licence (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0), which permits unrestricted re-use, distribution and reproduction, provided the original article is properly cited.
Copyright
© The Author(s), 2025. Published by Cambridge University Press.
Figure 0

Figure 1. (a) Surface current speed in an MITgcm simulation of the California Current system (Villas Boâs et al.2020), with the arrow indicating the primary direction of wave propagation; SWH anomaly computed using (b) WW3 and (c) the U2H map. (d) Difference between (c) and (b). The background wave action spectrum, described in Appendix B, is narrow banded in frequency (with periods around 10.3 s and wavelength 165.5 m) and angle (with peak angle $\theta _p=0$ and width parameter $s=10$). Panels (a,c) can be produced from the notebook accessible at https://www.cambridge.org/S0022112024009649/JFM-Notebooks/files/U2Hmap.

Figure 1

Figure 2. Estimated probability densities for $h_s$ computed using the U2H map (red lines) and WW3 model (yellow lines), for the example shown in (a) figure 1 and (b) figure 3. Probability densities are estimated by grouping the values of $h_s/\bar {H}_s$ within the unpadded domains into 100 bins.

Figure 2

Figure 3. (a) Surface current speed in an MITgcm simulation of the Gulf Stream, with the arrow indicating the primary direction of wave propagation; SWH anomaly computed using (b) WW3 and (c) the U2H map. (d) Difference between (c) and (b). The background wave action spectrum uses the LHCS model spectrum (B1) with $s=16$ and peak angle $\theta _p=191 ^{\circ }$.

Figure 3

Figure 4. The SWH anomaly for the divergent flow with Gaussian divergence (4.4) with characteristic radius $r_v = 25$ km (indicated by the dashed circle) and maximum speed $0.8\ {\rm m}\ {\rm s}^{-1}$. The results of WW3 simulations (a,c,e) are compared with the U2H prediction (4.3) (b,d,f) for three values of the parameter $s$ characterising the directional width of the wave spectrum.

Figure 4

Figure 5. Same as figure 4 but for the Gaussian vortex with $\zeta (r)$ in (4.5a,b).

Figure 5

Figure 6. The SWH anomaly computed using WW3 for an isotropic wave spectrum ($s=0$ in the LHCS model) with the Gaussian vortex $\zeta (r)$ in (4.5a,b). (a) Contour of $h_s$ for $U_m=0.8\ {\rm m}\ {\rm s}^{-1}$, with the dashed circle indicating the vortex radius $r_{v}$. (b) Cross-section of $h_s$ at $x=0$ (slicing through the centre of the vortex) for $U_m=1.6\ {\rm m}\ {\rm s}^{-1}$ (blue solid curve) and $U_m=0.8\ {\rm m}\ {\rm s}^{-1}$ (yellow solid curve). The yellow dashed curve is obtained by multiplying $h_s$ for $U_m=0.8\ {\rm m}\ {\rm s}^{-1}$ by 4.

Figure 6

Figure 7. Magnitudes of the transfer functions $\hat {L}_{\perp }(\varphi )$ (a) and $\hat {L}_{\parallel }(\varphi )$ (b) associated with the vortical and potential part of the current as functions of $\varphi$ for the LHCS spectrum with directionality parameter $s=1, 10$ and $15$. The exact values computed from (3.16) and (3.17) are shown by the dashed lines; the solid lines in (a) show the large-$s$ approximation (5.15) for $\hat {L}_{\perp }(\varphi )$. We take advantage of the symmetry (2.20) to show only the range $\varphi \in [0,{\rm \pi} ]$.

Figure 7

Figure 8. The SWH anomaly for a highly directional ($s=10$) wave spectrum and MITgcm current of figure 1 computed with the full U2H map (panel (a) identical to figure 1c), and with the $s \gg 1$ asymptotic approximation (b). This figure can be produced from the notebook accessible at https://www.cambridge.org/S0022112024009649/JFM-Notebooks/files/U2Hmap.

Supplementary material: File

Wang et al. supplementary material

Wang et al. supplementary material
Download Wang et al. supplementary material(File)
File 2.1 MB