2.1. Linear initial conditions

We define linear surface elevation

(2.1)\begin{equation} \eta^{(1)}(x,t)=\sum_{n=1}^{N}a_{n}\cos(\theta_n),\quad \mathrm{where}\ \theta_n=k_n x-\omega_n t+\varphi_n, \end{equation}

and velocity potential

(2.2)\begin{equation} \phi^{(1)}(x,z,t)=\sum_{n=1}^{N}a_{n}\frac{\omega_n}{k_n}\exp\left(k_n z\right)\sin(\theta_n), \end{equation}

as a summation of $N$ free wave components propagating on deep water, with amplitude $a_n$, frequency $\omega _n$ and wavenumber $k_n$, obeying the linear dispersion relationship $\omega _n^2=gk_n$ with $g$ the gravitational acceleration. Waves propagate in the positive $x$ direction, $z$ is positive in the upwards direction, with $z=0$ corresponding to the still-water level and $t$ is time. The phases $\varphi _n$ are defined such that all components are in phase at the desired focus time ($t=0$) and position ($x=0$). Defining phases in this manner creates a focused wave group, assuming linear dispersive focusing.

2.2. Frequency spectra

In the existing literature, various different spectra have been used to generate breaking wave groups (see table 1). To understand why differences in breaking behaviour observed in previous studies may arise, we examine three spectral shapes, namely constant-steepness and constant-amplitude spectra (§ 2.2.1) and JONSWAP spectra (§ 2.2.2). In each case, we define the amplitude spectrum, $\hat {\eta }^{(1)}(f)=\int \eta ^{(1)}(t)\exp ({\rm i}2{\rm \pi} ft)\,{\rm d}t$, from which initial conditions (2.1)–(2.2) are obtained using properties of linear dispersion.

2.2.1. Constant-amplitude and constant-steepness spectra

Perhaps the most simple and the most commonly used (cf. table 1) spectra are those for which the spectral components have constant amplitude or steepness, for which the amplitude spectra have the general form

(2.3)\begin{equation} \hat{\eta}^{(1)}(f)\propto f^m\quad \text{for}\quad f_0-\frac{\Delta f}{2} \leqslant f \leqslant f_0+\frac{\Delta f}{2}, \end{equation}

where $f_0$ is the central frequency and $\Delta f$ is the range of frequencies over which spectral components are defined (made non-dimensional as $\varDelta =\Delta f/f_0$). For constant-amplitude $a_n=C$ ($m=0$ in (2.3)) or constant-steepness $a_nk_n=C$ ($m=-2$ in (2.3) on deep water) spectra, the bandwidth parameter $\Delta f$ has a well-defined effect on the distribution of wave amplitude (and energy) as a function of frequency. For both spectral shapes, it is possible to define spectra with a wide range of bandwidths ($0<\varDelta <2$).

2.2.2. JONSWAP spectra

A drawback of using constant-amplitude and constant-steepness spectra is that such simple spectra do not represent well the complete spectral shape of realistic ocean waves. A JONSWAP spectrum,

(2.4)\begin{align} \hat{\eta}^{(1)}(f)\propto g^2(2{\rm \pi})^{{-}4}f^{{-}5}\exp\left(-\frac{5}{4}\left(\frac{f}{f_p}\right)^{{-}4}\right)\gamma^\beta \quad \textrm{with}\ \beta=\exp\left(\frac{-(f/f_p-1)^2}{2\sigma^2}\right), \end{align}

provides a more realistic alternative, from which breaking wave groups of different bandwidths may be generated by varying the peak enhancement parameter $\gamma$. In (2.4), $f_p$ is the peak frequency of the spectrum, and $\sigma$ takes the values $0.07$ and $0.09$ when $f< f_p$ and $f>f_p$, respectively. The parametric form of the JONSWAP spectrum in (2.4) generally corresponds to an energy spectrum (and, thus, $a_n\propto \sqrt {E(f_n)}$). Instead, we set the amplitude spectrum to be proportional to the JONSWAP spectrum itself in (2.4), as this gives the correct shape of extreme (and, thus, breaking) waves in an underlying random Gaussian sea (Lindgren Reference Lindgren1970; Boccotti Reference Boccotti1981).

2.3. Varying bandwidth for different spectral shapes

For all spectral shapes (i.e. (2.3) and (2.4)), the amplitude of the spectrum $\hat {\eta }(f)$, $a_0$, is scaled to achieve the desired global steepness $S$ of the corresponding wave group. Varying bandwidth indirectly, using parameters such as $\varDelta$, and $\gamma$ for a given spectral shape, causes the corresponding mean or characteristic wavenumber,

(2.5)\begin{equation} k_c=\frac{\sum a_n k_n}{\sum a_n}, \end{equation}

to change value. Herein, when comparing wave groups of different bandwidths, we adjust the value of $f_0$ or $f_p$ to maintain a constant value of $k_c$. By keeping constant $k_c$, wave groups of equal $S$ are also of equal amplitude, as $S\equiv k_c\sum a_n$ with $a_0=\sum a_n$. For all wave groups we examine herein, we choose a characteristic frequency of $f_c=1$ Hz ($T_c=1$ s, $\omega _c=2{\rm \pi} \ {\rm rad}\ {\rm s}^{-1}$, and $k_c=(2{\rm \pi} )^2/g\ {\rm rad}\ {\rm m}^{-1}$).

Examples of the spectra and resulting focused wave groups we use for linear calculations are shown in figure 3. The colour scales denote the values of parameters $\varDelta$ and $\gamma$ that correspond to the spectra and the wave groups in each panel; the same values and colours are also used in figure 4. We note that the parameters $\varDelta$ and $\gamma$ are not direct measures of bandwidth, and varying $\varDelta$ and $\gamma$ also changes other moments such as skewness. In the following sections, to provide a more general discussion on the role of bandwidth, we use the parameter $\nu$ unless stated otherwise, which is calculated as $\sqrt {m_0m_2/m_1^2-1}$ with $m_n$ the $n{\rm th}$ spectral moment of the energy spectrum $E(f)$.

Figure 3.

Spectral shapes and corresponding linear focused wave groups used for calculations in figure 4; (a,d) constant-amplitude, (b,e) constant-steepness and (c, f) JONSWAP spectra. Bandwidth is varied using the parameters $\Delta f$ (panels a,b,d,e) and $\gamma$ (panel c, f); the colour scales denote the corresponding values of $\varDelta$ (constant amplitude and constant steepness) and $\gamma$ (JONSWAP).

Figure 4.

Focused wave crest kinematics and measures of surface slope plotted as a function of bandwidth $\nu$, calculated based on linear theory at time and position of linear focus ($t=0, x=0$), for wave groups based on constant-amplitude (filled grey markers), constant-steepness (open grey markers) and JONSWAP spectra (filled coloured markers). The colour scales denote the corresponding values of $\gamma$ (JONSWAP) and $\varDelta$ (constant amplitude and constant steepness).

3.1. Surface kinematics

The kinematic description of wave breaking, which makes use of the ratio of fluid velocity to crest speed, provides an intuitive means to explore the effects bandwidth and spectral shape may have on breaking onset. Following kinematic arguments, wave breaking occurs when the fluid velocity at a wave crest reaches or exceeds the crests velocity. The ratio of fluid velocity to crest speed is also the basis for the parameter $B_x$, which was derived using dynamical arguments in Barthelemy et al. (Reference Barthelemy, Banner, Peirson, Fedele, Allis and Dias2018), and has been shown to predict the onset of breaking for 2-D (Saket et al. Reference Saket, Peirson, Banner, Barthelemy and Allis2017) and moderately spread waves (Barthelemy et al. Reference Barthelemy, Banner, Peirson, Fedele, Allis and Dias2018) in a range of water depths (Derakhti et al. Reference Derakhti, Kirby, Banner, Grilli and Thomson2020). In these studies, breaking occurs when $B_x>0.855$. Therefore, we use the parameter $B_x$ to refer to the ratio of fluid to crest speed hereafter. In the following section we use linear wave theory to examine how bandwidth affects wave crest kinematics and, thus, the ratio of fluid to crest speed $B_x$.

3.1.1. Crest speed

The dispersive nature of surface gravity waves causes the apparent crest speed of an unsteady wave group to fluctuate as wave components of varying phase speeds interact, coming in and out of phase (Fedele, Banner & Barthelemy Reference Fedele, Banner and Barthelemy2020). This effect has been observed in field data, and crest slow-down in particular has been linked to breaking onset (Banner et al. Reference Banner, Barthelemy, Fedele, Allis, Benetazzo, Dias and Peirson2014). Crest speed fluctuation is a predominantly linear effect that is also affected by nonlinear changes to dispersion as waves become steeper (Fedele et al. Reference Fedele, Banner and Barthelemy2020). The degree to which crest speed varies is related to the bandwidth of the underlying spectrum, as is the degree to which nonlinearity will affect dispersion. Two-dimensional wave groups with broad underlying spectra will experience greater linear crest speed variation and reduced nonlinear dispersion.

If we define a crest as the point at which slope $\partial \eta /\partial x=0$, which occurs at $x=x_c(t)$, crest speed $C^{(1)}\equiv {\rm d}\kern 0.06em x_c/{\rm d} t$, where the superscript denotes this is a linear approximation. For a discrete spectrum of $N$ waves at linear focus ($x=0$, $t=0$), this may be expressed as

(3.1)\begin{equation} C^{(1)}=\frac{\sum_{n=1}^{N}a_{n}\omega_nk_n}{\sum_{n=1}^{N}a_{n}k_n^2}. \end{equation}

Linearly predicted crest speed, normalised by characteristic phase speed $C_c$, is shown as a function of bandwidth $\nu$ in figure 4(a) for the three different spectral shapes we examine. We use characteristic wavenumber (defined in (2.5)) and frequency to calculate characteristic phase speed: $C_c=\omega _c/k_c$. For all three spectral shapes, crest speed reduces with increasing bandwidth (note that the normalisation by $C_c$ is independent of bandwidth, as we maintain a constant value of $k_c$). For the JONSWAP spectra, which extend over a smaller range of bandwidths $\nu$, the rate of crest slow down is similar to the constant-amplitude spectra, but the normalised values of crest speed are much lower. This difference is a result of the high-frequency tail of the JONSWAP spectrum.

3.1.2. Fluid velocity

Horizontal fluid velocity at $z=0$ and at focus ($x=0, t=0$) may be calculated linearly for a discrete spectrum of $N$ waves as

(3.2)\begin{equation} u^{(1)}=\left.\frac{\partial\phi^{(1)}}{\partial x}\right|_{x=0, z=0, t=0}=\sum_{n=1}^{N}a_{n}\omega_n. \end{equation}

Although evidently lower than the (nonlinear) velocity at the crest of a wave ($z=\eta$), linear fluid velocity at $z=0$ can still be used to illustrate how bandwidth affects surface kinematics.

Linearly predicted horizontal fluid velocity, normalised by characteristic velocity $a_0 \omega _c$ (constant as $\nu$ is varied), are plotted as a function of bandwidth $\nu$ for the different spectral shapes we examine in figure 4(b). As bandwidth is increased, fluid velocity reduces in similar manner to crest speed, but to a lesser extent.

3.2. Steepness and wave slope

For a discrete spectrum of $N$ waves, linear surface slope is given by

(3.3)\begin{equation} \eta^{(1)}_x=\frac{\partial\eta^{(1)}}{\partial x}=\sum^N_{n=1}-a_n k_n \sin(\theta_n). \end{equation}

Global steepness $S$ is the maximum possible value of linear surface slope,

(3.4)\begin{equation} S=\sum_{n=1}^{N}a_{n}k_n\equiv k_c\sum_{n=1}^{N}a_{n}\equiv a_0 k_c, \end{equation}

which is realised when the phases $\theta _n$ of all wave components are simultaneously ${\rm \pi} /2$. This global steepness $S$ is used to parameterise a range of breaking-related phenomena such as breaking intensity (Drazen, Melville & Lenain Reference Drazen, Melville and Lenain2008). Pizzo & Melville (Reference Pizzo and Melville2019) and Pizzo et al. (Reference Pizzo, Murray, Smith and Lenain2021) demonstrate, when paired with $\varDelta$, the global (or spectral) measure of steepness $S$ functions well as a parameter to predict breaking onset for chirped wave groups and wave groups based on a constant-steepness spectra (cf. (1.2)). In these studies, the parameter $S$ functions as a global measure of nonlinearity (steepness) and $\varDelta$ as a measure of the degree to which dispersion or nonlinear focusing will occur (bandwidth).

By definition, linear waves have the property $\mathrm {max}(|\eta ^{(1)}_x|)=\mathrm {max}(\eta ^{(1)}_x)=-\mathrm {min}(\eta ^{(1)}_x)$, which is not necessarily true for nonlinear waves, for which $\mathrm {max}(\eta _x)\neq -\mathrm {min}(\eta _x)$. Wave breaking is initiated by overturning and crest instabilities that occur at the crest front, and hence when referring to maximum local slope we report $|\mathrm {min}(\eta _x)|$. Nonlinearity, phase coherence, and imperfect wave generation may mean that actual wave slope at the point of wave breaking (local) will differ from a global measure such as $S$. To generate a (crest-)focused wave group, the phases of wave components are selected such that $k_nx-\omega _n t+\varphi _n=0$ at $t=0$ and $x=0$. To generate a maximum steepness wave group, the phases of all wave components $(k_nx-\omega _n t+\varphi _n)$ must be equal to ${\rm \pi} /2$. These two conditions are evidently incompatible, except for monochromatic waves, and thus maximum local slope $|\mathrm {min}(\eta ^{(1)}_x)|$ will only tend to $S$ as $\nu \rightarrow 0$. In figure 4(d), $|\mathrm {min}(\eta ^{(1)}_x)|$ is plotted as a function of bandwidth. The difference between $|\mathrm {min}(\eta ^{(1)}_x)|$ and $S$ (which we set to 1) increases with bandwidth and is more significant for the JONSWAP spectra. For all three spectral shapes and all values of $\nu$, the difference between local ($|\mathrm {min}(\eta ^{(1)}_x)|$) and global steepness ($S$) is less than $10\,\%$.

In Wu & Yao (Reference Wu and Yao2004) and many other studies, local steepness $kH/2$, where $H$ is wave height and $k$ is wavenumber (based on some local measure of period $T$ or wavelength $\lambda$), is used to examine wave breaking onset. Wu & Yao (Reference Wu and Yao2004) show that $kH/2$ functions well as parameter to predict the onset of wave breaking for wave groups based on constant-steepness and constant-amplitude spectra (cf. (1.1)). As introduced in § 1, the parameterisations (1.2) and (1.1) (from Pizzo et al. (Reference Pizzo, Murray, Smith and Lenain2021) and Wu & Yao (Reference Wu and Yao2004), respectively) describe opposing relationships between bandwidth and breaking steepness. In figure 4(e) linearly calculated local wave steepness $kH^{(1)}/2$ is plotted as a function of bandwidth; as bandwidth increases, $kH^{(1)}/2$ decreases for all three spectral shapes. Both wave local wavenumber $k$ and height $H^{(1)}$ decrease as a function of bandwidth (cf. figures 4( f) and 4(g), respectively). For constant-amplitude spectra the decreases in $kH^{(1)}/2$ is not smooth; this is a result of jumps in the position of zero-crossings that are used to calculate local wavenumber $k$ (figure 4f). Vertical asymmetry that arises from finite bandwidth, which causes $H^{(1)}$ to decrease, is a well-established linear effect (e.g. Boccotti Reference Boccotti1981). This local measure of steepness $kH^{(1)}/2$ varies by as much as $80\,\%$ as bandwidth is increased in figure 4(e), whereas local slope $|\mathrm {min}(\eta ^{(1)}_x)|$ varies only by 4 %–10 % in figure 4(d) (for wave groups of constant $S$).

The reduction in local steepness with bandwidth we predict using linear wave theory can, at least partially, explain the behaviour of (1.1) and, thus, the perceived conflicting relationships between breaking onset and bandwidth reported in Pizzo et al. (Reference Pizzo, Murray, Smith and Lenain2021) and Wu & Yao (Reference Wu and Yao2004). We note that in our calculations $H^{(1)}$ and $k$ are calculated spatially, using zero-crossing methods, and in Wu & Yao (Reference Wu and Yao2004) the same values are calculated using time-domain measurements, and the linear dispersion relationship is used to calculate $k$ from the zero-crossing period. Even for linear calculations there is a degree of error associated with this method used in Wu & Yao (Reference Wu and Yao2004). In addition, in Wu & Yao (Reference Wu and Yao2004) measurements were only made at locations where a wave gauge was located, which is not necessarily the location of the maximum local steepness (this is an issue for all experiments where wave gauge measurements are used). Rapp & Melville (Reference Rapp and Melville1990) also report that for experimentally generated incipient breaking waves, local steepness decreased with bandwidth and global steepness stayed approximately constant ($a_{sb}k_c$ and $ak_c$ in their notation, respectively). For these experiments focused wave groups were generated using constant-amplitude spectra; this different spectral shape may be a reason why $S$ remained approximately constant and did not increase with bandwidth as observed in Pizzo & Melville (Reference Pizzo and Melville2019).

4.1. Numerical method

The numerical method we use (Dold & Peregrine Reference Dold and Peregrine1986a) solves Laplace's equation subject to the kinematic and dynamic boundary conditions for free surface gravity waves in deep water, using an approach based on Cauchy's integral formula. This approach describes the time evolution of Lagrangian surface particles in a conformally mapped frame and is computationally efficient compared to boundary integral methods that are solved in the physical domain. The potential-flow simulations we perform do not account for the effects of surface tension and viscosity and, thus, relate only to purely gravity-driven surface waves and wave breaking.

4.1.1. Domain set-up

In defining the scale of our numerical domain we use similar parameters to those used in Pizzo et al. (Reference Pizzo, Murray, Smith and Lenain2021); these are summarised in table 2. The initial length of the domain, at $t_0$ (we use the subscript $0$ to indicate initial values), $X=93.7$ m, which corresponds to $60$ characteristic wavelengths ($\lambda _c=2{\rm \pi} /k_c$). For the simulations we present the domain is discretised using $2048$ particles, giving an initial particle spacing $\varDelta _{X_0}$ of $4.6$ cm, which corresponds to approximately $34$ particles per wavelength (Configuration A).

Table 2.

Numerical domain set-up.

For a number of simulations we apply a conformal map (Pizzo & Melville Reference Pizzo and Melville2019) to redistribute particles so that they are clustered around the focused wave group one period prior to the time of wave breaking $t^\star$ (Configuration B). The initial particle positions $x_p$ are projected onto a unit circle $\zeta =\exp ({\rm i}2{\rm \pi} x_p/X)$ and then remapped,

(4.1)\begin{equation} \varTheta=\frac{\zeta+\nu_0}{1+\nu_0\zeta}\quad \textrm{for}\ -1<\nu_0\leqslant0, \end{equation}

where $\nu _0$ defines the degree of clustering. For the simulations we rerun using this mapping a value of $\nu _0=-0.5$ was used. This remapping gives a minimum particle spacing of $1.5$ cm or approximately $105$ particles per wavelength.

4.2. Global and local measures of steepness

In § 3 we have demonstrated that, for wave groups of constant global steepness $S$, local steepness at focus ($kH/2$) decreases with bandwidth. We now examine how significantly this linearly predicted phenomenon affects nonlinear breaking waves by simulating incipient breaking wave groups based on constant-steepness spectra. To produce simulations of incipient breaking waves for a range of bandwidths, we search for the steepest non-breaking wave group at each value of bandwidth by varying the input value of $S$. We make use of (1.2) to provide an initial guess of this value of $S$. We stop searching when the step size in $S$ is less than $5\times 10^{-4}$.

Figure 5 shows global and local measures of steepness and slope for the largest non-breaking (grey large markers) and smallest breaking wave groups (red small markers) simulated. In all simulations where wave breaking occurred, we limit our search for maximum values of steepness to times prior to the surface becoming double valued. In panel (a) global steepness $S$ is plotted as a function of $\nu$; the input global steepness $S$ of simulations involving incipient breaking waves follows the quadratic fit (1.2) of Pizzo et al. (Reference Pizzo, Melville and Deike2019), as expected. The corresponding values of local steepness $kH/2$ are shown in figure 5(b), and are similar though not equivalent to the fit (1.1) of Wu & Yao (Reference Wu and Yao2004) with a clear offset between the two. The difference between the trends in our simulated results shown in panels (a,b) is consistent with the conclusions we have already drawn through linear calculations in § 3. Linear wave theory can therefore explain the difference between (1.1) and (1.2) and help understand inconsistencies in the existing literature (cf. figure 2).

Figure 5.

Global and local measures of maximum steepness as a function of bandwidth for the steepest non-breaking (grey markers) and least steep breaking (red dots) wave groups based on constant-steepness spectra. In panel (b) closed markers correspond to steepness measured $\pm T_c/2$ either side of the time of maximum slope $|\mathrm {min}(\eta _x)|$, and open markers correspond to maxima observed without this time constraint; in panel (c) the smaller dark grey dots correspond to simulations that were rerun using increased particle resolution at the crest (Configuration B). The inset in panel (c) shows the (much higher) values of maximum slope of breaking wave groups.

We note that a degree of conditioning was required to produce the values of $kH/2$ shown in figure 5(b). The values of $kH/2$ shown as solid grey dots are the maximum values observed within $\pm T_c/2$ of the time of maximum slope $|\mathrm {min}(\eta _x)|$. The open markers show the unconstrained maximum values of $kH/2$ measured at any time during each simulation, which show considerably more scatter. Estimating wavenumber using zero-crossings is unstable and can cause large spikes in corresponding values of $kH/2$. This is further illustrated in figure 6, where in panel (a) up- and down-crossing steepness of the largest wave is plotted as a function of time alongside maximum surface slope $|\mathrm {min}(\eta _x)|$. The surface elevations that correspond to the maximum values of each parameter, indicated by the vertical dashed lines in figure 6(a), are plotted in figure 6(b) with zero-crossings shown as $\times$ symbols. Spikes in $kH/2$ correspond to instances where the free surface forms a wave with two zero-crossings within close proximity, leading to a very short wavelength and large $k$.

Figure 6.

Example of spikes in local steepness $kH/2$ calculated for a focusing wave group: (a) up-crossing ($k_u H_u/2$) and down-crossing ($k_d H_d/2$) steepness and maximum local slope of the largest wave as a function of time; (b) the surface elevations that correspond to maximum values of each parameter (of corresponding line colour) with zero-crossings shown as $\times$ symbols. Vertical dashed lines in panel (a) show the three times at which maximum values of each parameter is observed, which correspond to the times for which surface elevations in space are shown in (b).

Locally measured maximum surface slope $|\mathrm {min}(\eta _x)|$, shown in figure 5(c), does not vary significantly as a function of bandwidth for the largest non-breaking waves (large grey dots). This may suggest that, independent of bandwidth, breaking is triggered by a maximum value of local slope, which is consistent with the rational presented in Pizzo & Melville (Reference Pizzo and Melville2019).

The values of $S$ for breaking waves are all slightly larger than those for the largest non-breaking waves (figure 5a); this is expected as $S$ is the independent variable we varied in our search for the breaking threshold. Some values of local steepness $kH/2$ are smaller for breaking than they are for non-breaking waves (figure 5b), making it a less useful threshold parameter (in the Appendix we show that this is also the case for various other local steepness parameters). Finally, for local slope $\eta _x$ it appears that there may be a threshold value of approximately $0.55$–$0.60$ after which breaking occurs, causing values of local slope to increase sharply as the surface overturns (figure 5c). Prior to wave breaking local slope varies in a smooth oscillatory manner. Evidently, local slope $\eta _x\rightarrow -\infty$ as overturning occurs; the values of slope in figure 5(c) for breaking waves (small red dots) are taken one time step prior to overturning.

Observed maximum local slope $\eta _x$ may be affected by the resolution of our simulations. Moreover, the onset of breaking may also change subtly depending on particle spacing at the wave crest. To establish the sensitivity of our results in figure 5(c) to the resolution of our numerical model, we rerun simulations of the largest non-breaking waves using the conformal mapping procedure outlined in § 4.1.2. The results of these simulations are shown as smaller dark grey dots in figure 5(c). For these simulations with significantly increased resolution near the wave crest, local slope still appears to approach a limit. The horizontal dashed line in figure 5(c) corresponds to a value of to $1/\tan ({\rm \pi} /3)$ ($\approx$0.5774), which corresponds to a slope of $60^\circ$ from the vertical (i.e. the limiting waveform of Stokes Reference Stokes1880).

Simulations of wave groups with larger bandwidths will involve more waves of high frequency and short wavelength, and the modelling of these short waves will be affected more by the resolution of our simulations ($N_p$). Thus, it follows that the differences observed between simulations performed using Configurations A and B are likely to be greater for larger bandwidths. This effect may also be the cause of the slight downward trend of $|\mathrm {min}(\eta _x)|$ with $\nu$ observed in figure 5(c) for the simulations performed using Configuration A.

Surface elevation for the steepest simulated non-breaking waves based on constant-steepness spectra are plotted at the time of maximum local slope in figure 7. The horizontal axis for each plot has been shifted so that the wave crests are aligned in space. The inset plots show the vertically aligned surface elevations and local slope. The lines in figure 7 correspond to the grey markers in figure 5, and are coloured corresponding to their input bandwidth (increasing $\varDelta$ dark to light). This figure visualises the phenomena behind what we observe in figures 5(b) and 5(c). As bandwidth is increased, vertical asymmetry and zero-crossing wavelength of the waves both increase ($k\downarrow$ and $H\downarrow$), meaning that the overall waveforms appear quite different. However, the local (downward) slope of the wave crest front ($\eta _x<0$) across all bandwidths appear very similar; this is most evident in the inset plots of surface elevation and slope in figure 7. The time and position at which $|\mathrm {min}(\eta _x)|$ occurs for the simulations shown in figure 7 varies. The narrow-banded simulations modulate significantly and break well before intended linear focus, whereas the broad-banded simulations focus to the point of breaking in a predominantly linear manner. As a result, the breaking waves we create have varying resemblance to the linear focused wave groups we use to define initial conditions. Thus, we believe that results we present here are not specific to the focused wave group approach we use to generate initial conditions.

Figure 7.

Surface elevation of maximally steep non-breaking focused wave groups based on constant-steepness spectra of different bandwidths, plotted as a function of $x$, which has been shifted to align the position of maximum surface elevation $\eta$ or slope $\eta _x$ for different bandwidths and made non-dimensional using $\lambda _c$. Inset plots show vertically aligned surface elevation $\eta -\eta _{max}$ (left) and local surface slope $\eta _x$ (right) at the wave crest. Line colours, dark to light, correspond to the bandwidth of the underlying spectrum, which ranges from $\varDelta =0.2$ to $1.4$. The red dotted line has a slope of $1/\tan ({\rm \pi} /3)$ ($\approx$0.5774), which corresponds to the limiting waveform of Stokes (Reference Stokes1880).

4.3. Crest instability

If breaking is indeed triggered by the local slope reaching a critical value, this may indicate that breaking is being caused by a form of super-harmonic instability (Longuet-Higgins & Dommermuth Reference Longuet-Higgins and Dommermuth1997). Crest instabilities can occur when the surface slope reaches a critical value; this forms the basis of the breaking model in Pizzo & Melville (Reference Pizzo and Melville2019). To examine if such an instability is the cause of breaking in our simulations we compare the surface elevation of breaking and non-breaking waves for a given bandwidth (see also Longuet-Higgins Reference Longuet-Higgins1978). Specifically, we subtract the surface elevation of the largest non-breaking wave group $\eta ^\star _{-\Delta S}$ from the surface elevation of the smallest breaking wave group $\eta ^\star$ to calculate the free surface perturbation $\Delta \eta ^\star =\eta ^\star -\eta ^\star _{-\Delta S}$ immediately prior to breaking (Tanaka et al. Reference Tanaka, Dold, Lewy and Peregrine1987). We do so for the wave groups we simulate based on constant-steepness spectra. If the free surface perturbation grows rapidly (e.g. exponentially), this indicates the presence of a crest instability. We note that these two wave groups (i.e. $\eta ^\star$ and $\eta ^\star _{-\Delta S}$) have a small difference in input steepness $\Delta S=5\times 10^{-5}$; this small difference in the initial conditions of the two wave groups $\Delta S$ may cause variation in $\Delta \eta ^\star$ that is not a result of a crest instability. To quantify which part of $\Delta \eta ^\star$ is simply a result of different initial steepness, we also calculate the free surface perturbation between the largest non-breaking wave $\eta ^\star _{-\Delta S}$ and a wave group $\eta ^\star _{-2\Delta S}$ with initial steepness $S$ that is $5\times 10^{-5}$ smaller again: $\Delta \eta =\eta ^\star _{-\Delta S}-\eta ^\star _{-2\Delta S}$. Following Longuet-Higgins & Dommermuth (Reference Longuet-Higgins and Dommermuth1997), we calculate the growth of potential instabilities from the maximum difference at each instance in time, $\mathrm {max}(\Delta \eta ^\star )-\mathrm {min}(\Delta \eta ^\star )$, of the free surface perturbation. In figure 8, we plot $\mathrm {max}(\Delta \eta ^\star )-\mathrm {min}(\Delta \eta ^\star )$ normalised by $\mathrm {max}(\Delta \eta )-\mathrm {min}(\Delta \eta )$ as a function of time, where $t_{\eta _x}$ is the time at which surface slope reaches a value of $0.5774$. The normalised perturbation grows sharply around $t_{\eta _x}$ and is approximately constant prior to $t_{\eta _x}$. This sudden increase is indicative of unstable behaviour, and suggest that surface slope may be subject to a type of (local) super-harmonic instability.

Figure 8.

Growth of a normalised surface perturbation as a function of time relative to the time $t_{\eta _x}$ at which surface slope reaches a (downward) value of $0.5774$ for wave groups based on constant-steepness spectra. The different coloured markers, dark to light, correspond to the bandwidth of the underlying spectrum, which ranges from $\varDelta =0.2$ to $1.4$.

4.4. Spectral shape

Linear calculations performed in § 3 demonstrated that, alongside bandwidth, spectral shape has a significant influence on surface kinematics and local steepness of focused wave groups. In the following section we perform simulations of steep breaking and non-breaking focused wave groups to determine how spectral shape affects the relationship between breaking onset and bandwidth. As in § 3, we analyse simulations of focused wave groups based on constant-steepness, constant-amplitude and JONSWAP spectra. We consider global steepness (§ 4.4.1) and local slope (§ 4.4.2) in turn.

4.4.1. Global steepness

Figure 9 shows a regime diagram of breaking and non-breaking behaviour based on global steepness $S$ and bandwidth $\nu$ for focused wave groups based on the different spectra we simulate. Grey markers denote simulations where no breaking was observed, red markers denote simulations where breaking was detected, and black dots denote simulations where $B_x>0.855$ prior to overturning. The dashed black lines show (1.2) obtained by Pizzo et al. (Reference Pizzo, Murray, Smith and Lenain2021) for a constant-steepness spectrum.

Figure 9.

Regime diagram of breaking and non-breaking behaviour as a function of global steepness $S$ and bandwidth $\nu$ for wave groups based on (a) JONSWAP and (b) constant-amplitude spectra. Grey markers indicate no breaking, red markers indicate overturning breaking and small black dots indicate $B_x>0.855$. Additional coloured markers show comparable experimental (albeit finite-depth) results from Rapp & Melville (Reference Rapp and Melville1990) and Craciunescu & Christou (Reference Craciunescu and Christou2020). Dot-dashed lines show our exponential (black) and quadratic (green) parametric curves fitted to the breaking onset steepness (see table 3).

Table 3.

Coefficients of parametric curves for breaking onset steepness as a function of bandwidth $\nu$ for focused wave groups based on JONSWAP and constant-amplitude spectra (see figure 9).

Before we discuss these simulations we emphasise that the range of bandwidths over which we simulate wave groups for each type of spectrum is different; thus, the horizontal axes limits for each panel in figures 9 and 11 are markedly different. For JONSWAP spectra varying $\gamma$ from 1 to 15 leads to variation in $\nu$ of approximately $0.25$–$0.375$. Further increases in $\gamma$ leads to minimal reduction in $\nu$. For constant-steepness and constant-amplitude spectra we are able to vary the bandwidth over a similar range ($\nu =0.05$–$0.4$).

In figure 9, the breaking threshold in terms of global steepness $S$ for focused wave groups based on JONSWAP spectra increases with bandwidth, but does not follow (1.2). For wave groups based on constant-amplitude spectra, initially there is a slight increase then a leveling off of the breaking threshold $S$ with bandwidth. Both spectral shapes, JONSWAP and constant-amplitude, show similar behaviour, leveling off for large values of $\nu$, but at two different values, $S=0.34$ and $0.26$, respectively. Table 3 lists parametric curves we have obtained by fitting two different functional forms to the data for the different spectra in figure 9.

As the next order spectral moment from bandwidth, spectral skewness may provide a way to characterise the influence spectral shape has on breaking onset. Spectra with a high-frequency tail (i.e. JONSWAP) will have positive skewness, as do constant-steepness spectra. For a constant-amplitude spectrum, skewness is zero, which may help explain the reduced variation of $S$ observed in figure 9(b). In figure 10 we plot 2-D projections of the regime diagram of breaking and non-breaking behaviour for all the simulations we perform in terms of bandwidth $\nu$, skewness $\varGamma$, calculated as the standardised third central moment of the energy spectrum and global steepness $S$. The black dashed lines delineate breaking and non-breaking behaviour for each of the three types of spectra simulated. From the limited coverage of the parameter space that our simulations provide, it does not appear possible to fit a smooth surface to delineate breaking and non-breaking behaviour.

Figure 10.

2-D projections of the 3-D regime diagram of breaking and non-breaking behaviour in terms of global steepness $S$, skewness $\varGamma$, bandwidth $\nu$, showing breaking (red) and non-breaking (grey) behaviour for all the focused wave groups simulated. Vertical partially transparent planes show the limits of the parameter range for each spectral shape (see the labels in panel c). The breaking threshold is delineated using black dashed lines. All panels show different projections of the same plot.

4.4.2. Local slope

In figure 11 we plot maximum values of local slope $\eta _x$ measured during the numerical simulations of wave groups based on JONSWAP and constant-amplitude spectra. As observed for focused wave groups based on constant-steepness spectra, maximum local steepness for non-breaking waves appears to also approach the limit $1/\tan ({\rm \pi} /3)$, i.e. a slope of $60^\circ$. This suggests that a breaking threshold based on local slope may be more universal than one based on global steepness, being valid across a range of bandwidths and spectral shapes.

Figure 11.

Maximum local slope $|\mathrm {min}(\eta _x)|$ as a function of bandwidth for (a) JONSWAP and (b) constant-amplitude spectra. Red and grey markers correspond to simulations where breaking has and has not occurred, respectively. For breaking simulations $\eta _x$ was measured one time step prior to overturning. The horizontal dashed lines correspond to $1/\tan ({\rm \pi} /3)$, i.e. a slope of $60^\circ$.

4.5. Breaking onset detection

We have found that the relationship between spectral shape and wave breaking onset is too complex to parameterise in a simple manner using a spectral parameters (i.e. $\nu$ and $\varGamma$) and global steepness $S$. Nevertheless, local parameters may still be used to indicate when breaking will occur on a wave-by-wave basis. While less generally applicable and less predictive, readily observable local parameters that can detect breaking onset are still highly useful.

As mentioned previously, the parameter $B_x$ has been shown to be a promising means by which to detect the onset of breaking of forced and unforced waves, in experiments (Saket et al. Reference Saket, Peirson, Banner, Barthelemy and Allis2017), numerical simulations of 2-D and moderately spread 3-D waves (Barthelemy et al. Reference Barthelemy, Banner, Peirson, Fedele, Allis and Dias2018), on deep and shallow water depths (Derakhti et al. Reference Derakhti, Kirby, Banner, Grilli and Thomson2020), and in the presence of constant vorticity (Touboul & Banner Reference Touboul and Banner2021). In figures 5 and 11 we have shown that local maximum surface slope, defined as $|\mathrm {min}(\eta _x)|$, may approach a threshold prior to breaking that is independent of spectral shape and bandwidth. It appears that local surface slope at the wave crest $|\mathrm {min}(\eta _x)|\rightarrow 1/\tan ({\rm \pi} /3)$ and may be self-similar for maximally steep waves (cf. figure 7). This local maximum slope is the same maximum slope predicted by Stokes (Reference Stokes1880) for the limiting waveform of progressive waves on deep water. Stokes's prediction of a $120^\circ$-corner flow at the crest of the limiting waveform, corresponds to a kinematic limit where $u/C=1$. Thus, there may be an inherent link between $|\mathrm {min}(\eta _x)|$ and $B_x$.

In many applications, particularly in the field or the laboratory, measuring local slope may be more straightforward than measuring surface kinematics. Therefore, $|\mathrm {min}(\eta _x)|$ may provide an alternative means to $B_x$, to detect the onset of breaking in such scenarios. In figure 12 we plot breaking (red) and non-breaking (grey) values of $|\mathrm {min}(\eta _x)|$ (panel a) and $B_x$ (panel b) as a function of input global steepness $S$ for all the simulations we have performed. Threshold values of $|\mathrm {min}(\eta _x)|=1/\tan ({\rm \pi} /3)$ and $B_x=0.855$ are shown as black dashed lines. In panel (c) box plots show the range of values both parameters take for breaking and non-breaking simulations. The top and bottom of each box correspond to the 25th and 75th percentiles, the central marks corresponds to the median, and the whiskers correspond to the range of values. Our simulations show that $|\mathrm {min}(\eta _x)|$ may function well as a threshold parameter as the separation between breaking and non-breaking is large and indeed larger than for $B_x$. The range of values of $|\mathrm {min}(\eta _x)|$ takes also does not exceed the limit $|\mathrm {min}(\eta _x)|=1/\tan ({\rm \pi} /3)$.

Figure 12.

Breaking onset threshold behaviour for all simulated wave groups, (a) maximum local slope $|\mathrm {min}(\eta _x)|$ and (b) the maximum value of parameter $B_x$ measured in each simulation plotted as a function input global steepness; in panel (c) box and whiskers show the range of breaking and non-breaking values for each parameter. Breaking and non-breaking waves are denoted by grey and red lines, respectively. Black dashed lines show values of $|\mathrm {min}(\eta _x)|=1/\tan ({\rm \pi} /3)$ and $B_x=0.855$; in panel (d) histograms show the times at which $|\mathrm {min}(\eta _x)|=1/\tan ({\rm \pi} /3)$ and $B_x=0.855$ relative to $t^\star$ the time at which the surface first becomes vertical, the histogram bars are scaled by the number of values in each bin divided by the total number of simulations where breaking occurred.

In a recent paper, Boettger et al. (Reference Boettger, Keating, Banner, Morison and Barthélémy2023) examined the flux of the maximum kinetic energy $D_b E_k/Dt$ at the crest of breaking and non-breaking waves, and found that breaking occurred when $D_b E_k/Dt \geqslant 0.235$ for 2-D chirped wave packets on intermediate and deep water ($k_pd=1.07\unicode{x2013}3.14$). This threshold occurs approximately 0.25 periods prior to $B_x=0.855$ and may potentially be an indication of irreversible breaking inception, which precedes breaking onset. In figure 12(d) we plot the times at which $\eta _x=-0.5774$ and $B_x=0855$ occur relative to $t^\star$, the time at which the surface first becomes vertical, for the breaking waves we have simulated. The $B_x$ threshold is exceeded at around $-0.05T_c$, and the slope threshold is exceeded at between approximately $-0.5T_c$ and $-0.1T_c$. The times at which $\eta _x=-0.5774$ are similar to the times at which $D_b E_k/Dt =0.235$ in figure 10 of Boettger et al. (Reference Boettger, Keating, Banner, Morison and Barthélémy2023). Thus, there may be a link between a surface-slope-based and an energy-based signature of breaking inception. In our simulations the time at which $\eta _x=-0.5774$ is a function of spectral bandwidth with $(t-t^\star )/T_c$ reducing slightly as bandwidth increases, which explains some of the scatter in figure 12(d). On the other hand, in our simulations it appears that the time at which $B_x=0.855$ occurs is largely unaffected by bandwidth.

At certain scales surface tension can create parasitic capillary waves (PCWs) that form at steep wave crests, affecting wave geometry and potentially the onset and dynamics of wave breaking (see Dias & Kharif (Reference Dias and Kharif1999) for a review of some of these effects). In Duncan (Reference Duncan2001), the formation of PCWs on spilling breaking waves is reviewed, suggesting that PCWs can occur on breaking waves with wavelengths of around 1 m and below. In experiments performed using clean water, Diorio, Liu & Duncan (Reference Diorio, Liu and Duncan2009) observed PCW formation on spilling breaking waves that were generated by dispersive focusing with characteristic wavelengths as large as $1.2$ m. Boettger et al. (Reference Boettger, Keating, Banner, Morison and Barthélémy2023) performed computational fluid dynamics (CFD) simulations of 2-D breaking waves, concluding that the effects of surface tension were negligible on the energetics of breaking onset and that small amounts of viscous dissipation occurred at the wave crest ($\lambda _p=0.85$ m, ${Re}=4\times 10^4$). The studies we have referenced above examine a mixture of breaking and non-breaking waves. Deike, Popinet & Melville (Reference Deike, Popinet and Melville2015) performed DNS simulations with ${Bo}=10^1\unicode{x2013}10^4$ to systematically assess how surface tension affects the onset of wave breaking. They only observed PCWs below the critical Bond number ${Bo}_c=67$ ($\lambda =0.14$ m). These simulations also showed that for ${Bo}\gg 10^2$ the effects of surface tension are small and the steepness at which wave breaking occurs is Bond number independent; a Bond number of $10^3$ corresponds to waves of approximately $0.5$ s in period or 0.4 m in wavelength (${Bo}=\Delta \rho g/(\gamma k^2)$, assuming $\Delta \rho =1.0\times 10^3\ {\rm kg}\ {\rm m}^{-3}$ and $\gamma =7.2\times 10^{-2}\ {\rm N}\ {\rm m}^{-1}$). The slope-based threshold we have observed may be affected by the formation of PCWs at small length scales ($\lambda \lesssim 1\ {\rm m}$), where surface tension becomes important. This could be assessed through separate simulations that include the effects of surface tension or physical experiments, either of which constitute a considerable undertaking and go beyond the scope of the current paper.