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The Political Economy of Status Competition: Sumptuary Laws in Preindustrial Europe

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  21 March 2024

Desiree Desierto
Affiliation:
Assistant Professor, Department of Economics, George Mason University, 4400 University Dr, Fairfax, VA 22030. E-mail: ddesiert@gmu.edu
Mark Koyama*
Affiliation:
Associate Professor, Department of Economics, George Mason University, 4400 University Dr, Fairfax, VA 22030.
*
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Abstract

Sumptuary laws that regulated clothing based on social status were an important part of the political economy of premodern states. We introduce a model that captures the notion that consumption by ordinary citizens poses a status threat to ruling elites. Our model predicts a non-monotonic effect of income—sumptuary legislation initially increases with income, but then falls as income increases further. The initial rise is more likely for states with less extractive institutions, whose ruling elites face a greater status threat from the rising commercial class. We test these predictions using a new dataset of country and city-level sumptuary laws.

It is unfortunately an established fact that both men and womenfolk have, in utterly irresponsible manner, driven extravagance in dress and new styles to such shameful and wanton extremes that the different classes are barely to be known apart.

—Nuremberg Ordnance of 1657, Quoted in Hunt (1996)

Information

Type
Article
Creative Commons
Creative Common License - CCCreative Common License - BY
This is an Open Access article, distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution licence (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/), which permits unrestricted re-use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.
Copyright
© The Author(s), 2024. Published by Cambridge University Press on behalf of the Economic History Association
Figure 0

Figure 1 SUMPTUARY LEGISLATION OVER TIMEData Sources: See text and Online Appendix 1.

Figure 1

Figure 2 HIGH INTENSITY SUMPTUARY LAW REGIMES BY COUNTRY-CENTURY PAIRSSources: See text and Online Appendix 1.

Figure 2

Figure 3 POOLED COUNTRY-LEVEL ANALYSIS: SUMPTUARY LAWS AND PER CAPITA GDPSources: See text and Online Appendix 1.

Figure 3

Figure 4 PARALLEL TRENDS: SUMPTUARY LAWS IN CITIES MORE OR LESS AFFECTED BY POST-1348 PLAGUE.Sources: See text and Online Appendix 1.

Figure 4

Figure 5 FRENCH SUMPTUARY LAWS (BY DECADE) AND GDP PER CAPITASource: Data described in Online Appendix 1.

Figure 5

Table 1 SUMPTUARY LAWS AND GDP

Figure 6

Table 2 THE EFFECT OF PLAGUE SHOCKS ON THE NUMBER OF SUMPTUARY LAWS: CITY-LEVEL PANEL ANALYSIS, DECADE LEVEL

Figure 7

Table 3 THE EFFECT OF PLAGUE SHOCKS ON THE NUMBER OF SUMPTUARY LAWS: CITY-LEVEL PANEL ROBUSTNESS, DECADE-LEVEL

Figure 8

Table 4 THE EFFECT OF PLAGUE SHOCKS ON THE NUMBER OF SUMPTUARY LAWS: CITY-LEVEL PANEL ANALYSIS BY CITY INSTITUTIONS

Supplementary material: PDF

Desierto and Koyama supplementary material

Desierto and Koyama supplementary material

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