Hostname: page-component-6766d58669-l4t7p Total loading time: 0 Render date: 2026-05-14T22:44:36.976Z Has data issue: false hasContentIssue false

Breaking-wave induced pressure and acceleration on a clifftop boulder

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  27 October 2021

James N. Steer*
Affiliation:
School of Mathematics and Statistics, University College Dublin, Belfield, Dublin 4, Ireland
O. Kimmoun
Affiliation:
Ecole Centrale de Marseille, Technopôle Château-Gombert, 13451 Marseille, France
F. Dias
Affiliation:
School of Mathematics and Statistics, University College Dublin, Belfield, Dublin 4, Ireland ENS Paris-Saclay, CNRS, Centre Borelli, Université Paris-Saclay, 91190 Gif-sur-Yvette, France
*
Email address for correspondence: james.steer@ucd.ie

Abstract

The movements of some massive (${O}(100)\ \textrm {t}$) clifftop boulders, once thought to have been caused by tsunami, have been reattributed to storm waves in several recent papers. However, the precise wave-impact modes and transport mechanisms are unknown. We present preliminary linear acceleration, pressure and displacement data recorded by a $1\,{:}\,30$ scale clifftop boulder impacted by a focused breaking wave in a laboratory flume. The 8 kg boulder was placed atop a 0.25 m high platform and struck with a breaking wave of 0.34 m amplitude. Wave focus position was varied from 0.8 m fore of the platform to 0.27 m aft of the platform to alter the breaking crest shape and wave impact type while maintaining total wave spectral energy. Pressure and acceleration time series measurements from within the boulder show distinct impact types across focus positions. All impacts produced boulder displacement, ranging from 5 mm to 42 mm (0.15 m to 1.3 m at full scale, assuming Froude scaling). The largest boulder pressures were recorded when the wave crest and trough struck the boulder at the same position (flip-through). The largest boulder displacements were measured when high pressures and long impact durations occurred simultaneously and wave focusing was close to flip-through.

Information

Type
JFM Rapids
Creative Commons
Creative Common License - CCCreative Common License - BY
This is an Open Access article, distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution licence (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/), which permits unrestricted re-use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.
Copyright
© The Author(s), 2021. Published by Cambridge University Press
Figure 0

Figure 1. Experimental flume set-up (a) showing the black boulder sitting atop the platform, $11.665 \ \textrm {m}$ from the wavemaker. Free-surface elevation, $\eta$, data collected during test 11e shows the unfocused chirped wave group at the first gauge and the quasi-focused wave group recorded at the sixth. Internal boulder instrumentation is shown (b) with variable names of the measured quantities. The central time $t_0$ is given by (2.1).

Figure 1

Table 1. All tests with the boulder displacement, $\Delta x$, ordered by nominal wave focus position, $x_f$.

Figure 2

Figure 2. All boulder displacements, $\Delta x$, as a function of focus position, $x_f$, also give in table 1. Data points are coloured by boulder displacement and open circles delineate tests presented in figure 4. This figure also serves to define the colour map for all other relevant figures.

Figure 3

Figure 3. Images captured from the high-speed movie recording increasing monotonically in time ($\Delta t = 30 \ \textrm {ms}$) from left to right, for three tests representing the most distinct impact types: broken/aerated (test 2), breaking (test 9a) and sloshing (test 24). (a) Test 2, $x_f = -0.60\ \textrm {m}$, $\Delta x = 12\ \textrm {mm}$. (b) Test 9a, $x_f = -0.05\ \textrm {m}$, $\Delta x = 38\ \textrm {mm}$. (c) Test 24, $x_f = 0.22\ \textrm {m}$, $\Delta x = 11\ \textrm {mm}$.

Figure 4

Figure 4. Selected pressure (grey line accented with black dots with units of kPa) and $x$-acceleration (black line with units of $\textrm {m}\ \textrm {s}^{-2}$) time series represented generically in the $y$-axis label by $f(t)$. Time series have been scaled by $C = 2500$ and then translated vertically by the wave focus position, $x_f$. A scale key is given to the left of the $y$-axis. Each test is centred horizontally about its expected time $t_0$ (see § 2.2 for calculation). Coloured areas denote the pressure impact time range of the tests defined in § 2.2. Error bars stretch across twice the impact duration (see § 2.2 for calculation method).

Figure 5

Figure 5. All data points are coloured by boulder displacement (see figure 2). Open circles delineate tests presented in figure 4. The grey circle (clearly visible in some plots) indicates an unknown boulder displacement. (ac) The $x$-acceleration maxima and moments. (df) Pressure maxima and moments.

Steer et al. supplementary movie

High speed video (1000 Hz) of test 35, in which the boulder was displaced by 26.3 mm and the breaking wave was focused at 0.05 m.

Download Steer et al. supplementary movie(Video)
Video 78.3 MB
Supplementary material: PDF

Steer et al. supplementary material

Supplementary data

Download Steer et al. supplementary material(PDF)
PDF 159.2 KB