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The economics of saignée in winemaking

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  17 January 2023

Christopher Costello*
Affiliation:
UC Santa Barbara, 4410 Bren Hall, UCSB, Santa Barbara CA 93106 NBER, 1050 Massachusetts Avenue, Cambridge, MA 02138
Olivier Deschênes
Affiliation:
UC Santa Barbara, 2050 North Hall, UCSB, Santa Barbara CA 93106 NBER, 1050 Massachusetts Avenue, Cambridge, MA 02138
Charles Kolstad
Affiliation:
Stanford University and UC Santa Barbara, 3416 Bren Hall, UCSB, Santa Barbara CA 93106 NBER, 1050 Massachusetts Avenue, Cambridge, MA 02138
Andrew J. Plantinga
Affiliation:
UC Santa Barbara, 3424 Bren Hall, UCSB, Santa Barbara CA 93106
Tyler Thomas
Affiliation:
Star Lane & Dierberg Vineyards, 1280 Drum Canyon Rd., Lompoc CA 93436
*
Corresponding author: Christopher Costello, email: costello@bren.ucsb.edu
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Abstract

The winemaking technique of saignée is common for some varietals, and the ensuing flavor profiles have been carefully analyzed by oenologists. However, we argue that saignée is fundamentally about economic tradeoffs between the quantity of primary wine that is ultimately produced, the quality (and thus, price) of that wine, and the amount of rosé wine that is bled off in the process. We develop the first theoretically-grounded economic model of saignée and analyze the model to shed light on the winemaker's optimal choice of saignée, and on the properties of wine and wine markets that should empirically give rise to more, or less, saignée. The model helps to explain several real-world regularities such as the absence of saignée for most Bordeaux wines, the specialization in rosé for many wines in Provence, and the practice of moderate amounts of saignée for varietals such as grenache and pinot noir.

Information

Type
Article
Creative Commons
Creative Common License - CCCreative Common License - BY
This is an Open Access article, distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution licence (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/), which permits unrestricted re-use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.
Copyright
Copyright © The Author(s), 2023. Published by Cambridge University Press on behalf of American Association of Wine Economists
Figure 0

Figure 1. Possible realizations of the profit function, π(S).Note: The black dot indicates the optimal saignée for each scenario.

Figure 1

Figure 2. Primary wine price as a function of saignée percentage (S) in our simulations.

Figure 2

Figure 3. Revenue and optimal saignée.Notes: Solid lines indicate revenue as a function of S. Dashed line shows the level of saignée that maximizes wine quality (). Dots show optimal saignée for each rosé price.

Figure 3

Figure 4. Optimal saignée as a function of rosé price.