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Theory of deep-water surface gravity waves derived from a Lagrangian

Published online by Cambridge University Press:  27 May 2020

Nick Pizzo*
Affiliation:
Scripps Institution of Oceanography, University of California, San Diego, La Jolla,CA 92093-0213, USA
*
Email address for correspondence: npizzo@ucsd.edu

Abstract

An exact set of equations describing deep-water irrotational surface gravity waves, originally proposed by Balk (Phys. Fluids, vol. 8 (2), 1996, pp. 416–420), and studied in the case of standing waves by Longuet-Higgins (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 423, 2000, pp. 275–291) and Longuet-Higgins (Proc. R. Soc. Lond. A, vol. 457 (2006), 2001, pp. 495–510), are analytically examined and put in a form more suitable for practical applications. The utility of this approach is its simplicity. The Lagrangian is a low-order polynomial in the Fourier coefficients, leading to equations of motion that are correspondingly of low degree. The structure of these equations is examined, and the existence of solutions is considered. To gain intuition about the system of equations, a truncated model is first examined. Linear stability analysis is performed, and the evolution of the fully nonlinear system is discussed. The theory is then applied to fully resolved permanent progressive deep-water waves and a simple method for finding the eigenvalues and eigenvectors of the normal modes of this system is presented. Potential applications of these results are then discussed.

Information

Type
JFM Papers
Creative Commons
Creative Common License - CCCreative Common License - BY
This is an Open Access article, distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution licence (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/), which permits unrestricted re-use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.
Copyright
© The Author(s), 2020. Published by Cambridge University Press
Figure 0

Figure 1. Permanent progressive solutions to the $N=1$ equations of motion. For larger values of $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6FC}_{0}$, the waves become peakier at the trough and flatter at the crests. For $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6FC}_{0}\rightarrow 1/2$, the solution forms a cusp so that there is a limiting wave in this system.

Figure 1

Figure 2. Potential $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6F1}(\unicode[STIX]{x1D70C})$ when $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6EC}>0$ (black line) and $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6EC}<0$ (red line), where $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6EC}$ is defined in (4.28) and $\unicode[STIX]{x1D70C}=|\unicode[STIX]{x1D6FC}|$. For the case of $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6EC}>0$, the solutions are stable for all times. When $\unicode[STIX]{x1D6EC}<0$, solutions may be unstable, leading to the formation of a cusp in the free surface as $\unicode[STIX]{x1D70C}\rightarrow 1/2$.

Figure 2

Figure 3. A comparison of the eigenvalues squared of Tanaka (1983) (red dashed-dot line) versus the prediction given by Balk’s system, i.e. equation (5.12), shown by the black dots. The change in (minus) energy, $-E$, with respect to $ak$ is shown by the blue dashed line.